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Ever heard about the magic of banana peels for your garden? It’s all over the internet. Apparently, burying peels at the base of your roses can do wonders. Or why not whip up some banana peel tea? Just soak those peels in water for a few days—it’s a terrific boost for your houseplants.
If you’re feeling crafty, dry out those peels until they’re crisp, crush them into a powder, and sprinkle it around your garden. I even stumbled across a DIY recipe for a banana peel spray fertilizer.
And it’s not just plants that benefit. Chomping on banana peels is buzzing with claims of health perks, including teeth whitening. But let’s get real—do banana peels truly elevate our gardens, or are they just another type of compost? Let’s dig into the truth behind the hype.
Questioning the Nutrient Claims of Banana Peels
I stumbled upon a YouTube video recently that made a bold claim: banana peels have an NPK ratio of 0-25-42. Now, whenever you come across such statements, it’s important to approach them with a healthy dose of skepticism.
Ask yourself: does this seem feasible? If something feels off, it’s probably best to steer clear because the advice might be questionable.
Here’s why that claim doesn’t hold up: Banana peels, like all plant matter, contain nitrogen because they are part of a living organism that requires protein, and protein has nitrogen. So, a nitrogen value of zero? That’s just not possible.
Consider this too: Living organisms are mostly made up of water—around 80%, just like bananas. So, how could the potassium content in banana peels possibly be as high as 42%? It doesn’t add up. And the idea that a third of a banana peel could be made up of phosphate and potash (67% combined)? That’s even more implausible.
It turns out, this isn’t the only source claiming a potassium level of 42% in banana peels, which is utterly far-fetched.
So, what should we really be asking? It’s whether banana peels are notably more beneficial than other organic materials that enrich the soil. Are they packed with any special nutrients that other sources don’t offer? If true, they could be considered a plant superfood.
You might find numerous online claims touting the high nutritional value of banana peels, some even suggesting they are more nutrient-rich than the fruit itself. These statements are compelling but often lack the hard numbers to back them up. What exactly does “high” mean here, and how does it compare to other organic matter?
Another confusion arises with the moisture content—whether these nutrient percentages are calculated on a wet or dry basis. Often, figures like the 42% potassium content might refer to the dry weight, but are misleadingly presented as if they were based on the wet weight, which significantly skews the real picture.
Credit: Empress of Dirt
Understanding the Nutrient Content of Banana Peels for Gardening
Banana peels are a treasure trove of nutrients that can seriously boost the health of your indoor plants and garden. Here’s a quick rundown of what these natural wonders can do:
Calcium in banana peels enhances root growth and boosts soil aeration.
Magnesium plays a critical role in helping plants perform photosynthesis.
Sulfur strengthens roots and naturally wards off pests.
Phosphorus not only improves flowering and fruiting but also aids in pollination and seed development.
Potassium increases overall plant health, enhances pest resistance, and supports fruit development.
Despite some claims to the contrary, research supports the nutrient value of banana peels. For instance, the protein content in banana skins, at 3.5%, translates to about 0.6% nitrogen based on the protein’s average nitrogen content of 16%.
Moreover, while the NPK (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium) values for dried banana skins are 0.6-0.4-11.5, fresh peels have about a fifth of these values—making it 0.1-0.1-2.3.
Interestingly, when compared to store-bought bagged manure, which typically has an NPK of 1-1-1, banana peels can be a cost-effective and organic alternative.
Credit: gardenmyths
Are Bananas Exceptionally High in Potassium?
While it’s a common belief, bananas aren’t as rich in potassium as some might think. They do contain more potassium than grains and meats, but other fruits and veggies, like tomatoes, potatoes, and beets, often surpass bananas in this regard.
In fact, a cup of chocolate milk holds as much potassium as a banana, showing that while beneficial, bananas are not unparalleled in their potassium content.
The Truth About Banana Peel Fertilizer: What Science Says
While scouring various studies, I found no solid evidence that soaking banana peels in water actually pulls out nutrients. Chemically speaking, it’s feasible for potassium to seep into the water, though the exact amount is unclear. Most other nutrients, due to their structure, tend to stay put in the peels.
Now, it’s key to ask whether your plants even need that extra potassium. Although essential, your garden’s soil or potting mix might already be rich in potassium. Check if your plants are showing signs of potassium shortage—like yellowing, curling leaf edges—before using this homemade fertilizer.
But remember, these symptoms could stem from different issues. Without knowing the precise potassium content of your DIY fertilizer, it’s tricky to get the dosage right. If you decide to go ahead, it’s best to start with a diluted solution and test it on a few plants first.
The mystical allure of banana peels doesn’t end with potassium. Some suggest that other beneficial chemicals might be present, yet concrete proof remains elusive.
Despite claims about antioxidants boosting our health, the scientific backing isn’t quite there yet when it comes to plant benefits. Essentially, banana peels are just another type of organic matter for plants.
As for brewing banana peel tea by steeping peels in hot water or letting them soak in sunlight, the process doesn’t break down the peels much. This means most nutrients don’t make it into the water, leaving you with a potassium-light solution and little else. So, don’t be fooled by lofty claims about plant tea miracles.
There’s a popular tip to tuck banana peels into the planting hole for roses, sometimes chopped up for quicker decomposition. But if banana peels are so beneficial, wouldn’t all plants thrive with them, not just roses? As banana peels break down, they turn into a dark sludge—not exactly what you’d want around delicate roots.
Moreover, the nutrient balance in peels—high in potassium compared to nitrogen and phosphate—isn’t ideal for most plants. Some gardeners add eggshells to fix this imbalance, but since eggshells don’t readily decompose, this hardly solves the problem.
This rose-and-banana-peel advice likely springs from the myth that high potassium boosts root and flower development. But in reality, there’s no evidence that banana peels specifically promote root growth or blooming. It’s a misconception that’s taken root without much to back it up.
Credit: Homestead How-To
How to use banana peels in your garden
Did you know banana peels might have a bit of a party trick up their sleeve? There’s a quirky rumor that they contain a psychoactive substance and that smoking them can give you a relaxed or “high” feeling. This odd idea seems to have taken root around the time Donovan’s 1966 hit “Mellow Yellow” was released.
But beyond their rumored buzz, banana peels have found their place in kitchens and gardens alike. Some folks blend them into smoothies or cook them into desserts, and yes, they’re perfectly fine to eat! They’ve even made a cameo in vegan cuisine, believe it or not, masquerading as pulled pork. Now, that’s a culinary twist!
In the gardening world, banana peels are gold. They’re not just any old organic waste; they’re a boon for compost heaps. By adding chopped banana peels to your compost, you accelerate their breakdown, enriching your compost with valuable organic material faster.
This not only improves your soil’s health but also gives your plants a leg up in their growth. So next time you enjoy a banana, remember, its peel is more than just trash—it’s a treasure for your garden and compost pile!
Enhancing Soil Quality with Mulching and Banana Peels
Mulching is a fantastic way to enhance both the soil quality and overall health of your garden. It helps suppress weeds, conserves soil moisture—retaining up to 70% more moisture than soils without mulch—and supports beneficial insects and microorganisms.
Adding banana peels to your garden is a simple yet effective method to enrich the soil. You can lay them directly on the soil around your plants. As they break down, they release valuable nutrients that feed your plants. To prevent pests like fruit flies, place the peels in a single layer and cover them with a layer of organic mulch, such as sugar cane mulch.
Credit: Rural Sprout
If you’re looking for a quick way to use banana peels, simply lay them on the soil in your beds and borders, much like you might use orange peels. You can either place whole peels face down or chop them up to speed up decomposition, allowing your plants to access the nutrients sooner.
Using banana skins as mulch not only helps retain moisture and control weeds but also enriches the soil with nutrients as they decompose. Another method is to bury the peels directly in the soil, which is particularly useful if you don’t have the space for a composter.
Banana peels can be tricky to use as fertilizer during the colder months, but there’s an easy fix: chop them up into one-inch pieces and toss them into your compost bin. This way, you’re prepping your compost with a nutrient-rich boost for spring.
Banana peels are perfect for any composting setup, be it at home, through your city’s collection, or even in a worm farm. They’re packed with nutrients that enrich the composting process, helping to feed the soil as they break down naturally.
Credit: Gardener’s Path
Why complicate things? Let the microorganisms and fungi do their thing, breaking down the peels and releasing their nutrients directly into your garden soil. You can even place whole peels on the soil and let them decompose right there.
And here’s a little nugget of truth: while bananas are known for their potassium, other foods, like potatoes, have even more. So, there’s no special reason to favor banana peels over other kitchen scraps. Composting is an excellent way to give new life to all your food waste, ensuring nothing goes to waste and your garden thrives.
Dry and Grind: An Easy Method for Banana Peel Fertilizer
I think there’s a simpler way to boost your garden’s health using banana peels than the maceration method. You might want to try drying the peels. Just lay them out under the sun or pop them in the oven until they’re crisp. Once they’re dry, grind them into a fine powder. This powder can be used directly on your soil or mixed with water.
However, it’s key to remember that for the potassium in the banana peels to really benefit your plants, it needs to be broken down by microorganisms in the soil. This process isn’t always guaranteed, especially with indoor plants where microbial life might be limited.
If you’re not keen on composting or soaking the peels, drying and grinding them offers a fantastic alternative. This method allows you to create a shelf-stable fertilizer that’s easy to store and use whenever your garden needs a potassium boost.
You can start by chopping the peels a bit to speed up the drying time. Be sure to remove the ends since they take longer to dry out. When the peels are totally dry and brittle, crush them into a fine powder using a mortar and pestle or a coffee grinder.
Credit: Stone Family Farmstead
For those who want to dive deeper into DIY fertilizers, consider fermenting the banana peels. While it’s a bit more complex, fermentation can extract nutrients more efficiently. You might try the bokashi method, which is great for home use and really gets the most out of your peels.
The disadvantages
Using banana peels as fertilizer can be a clever gardening hack, but there are some key things to keep in mind. First off, it’s best to stick with organic bananas to avoid introducing pesticides from conventional banana farming into your garden.
One drawback of using banana peels is that they don’t provide a consistent potassium level, raising the risk of nutrient overdose.
Additionally, introducing banana peels or sugary substances to your indoor plants might draw fruit flies. Another point to consider is that banana peels are low in nitrogen, which is essential for some plants.
If you’re planning on composting these peels, remember they take about two years to fully decompose. Consistently adding them to your compost pile will eventually yield a nutrient-rich compost that can greatly benefit your garden.
Banana peels aren’t just for outdoor plants; they can also enhance the health of your indoor greenery. Before tossing them into the compost, try using them to clean the leaves of your houseplants.
Simply wipe the leaves with the inside of the peel to remove dust and make them shine, improving their ability to absorb sunlight and grow more vibrant foliage. This natural cleaning method is not only effective but also avoids clogging the pores of the leaves, unlike some commercial cleaners.
Whether you’re baking a sweet cake or crafting a delicious brunch, you’ll likely find yourself cracking a few eggs along the way. We often indulge in the yolks and whites (check out our recipes page for some culinary ideas), but typically discard the tough, crunchy shells.
For many of us who enjoy cooking, dealing with eggshells in compost can be a headache. I still vividly recall my excitement as I gathered my first batch of compost—my kitchen scraps and yard debris had transformed into rich, dark humus. The only exceptions? The numerous eggshells that hadn’t broken down.
However, I’ve since tweaked my approach, and now, those stubborn shell pieces are no longer an issue—and they don’t have to be for you either. I’m here to share not only how to incorporate them effectively into your compost but also to explore their other uses as soil amendments and potential pest deterrents.
Don’t be too quick to throw those eggshells away. They can be wonderfully repurposed in the garden. Need a little fertilizer for your flowerbeds or planning to plant some seeds for the upcoming spring and summer? Consider using those leftover shells as a natural boon.
Before you consider discarding your eggshells, think again. Using them as fertilizer can enrich the soil, helping your plants absorb vital nutrients, promoting vigorous growth, and maintaining soil acidity levels.
So next time you whip up an omelet, think twice about tossing those shells in the garbage. Let’s dive into some of our favorite ways to reuse eggshells, reducing food waste and giving your garden a fresh burst of life.
The Surprising Benefits of Eggshells for Your Garden and Beyond
Eggshells, while fantastic at protecting their contents, can be quite a space-hog in your trash or compost if not crushed. It’s surprising how many people toss them in the trash without thinking twice.
Did you know that in the U.S., about 150,000 tons of eggshells end up in landfills each year? That’s almost a million pounds every day! That’s a lot of space taken up by these calcium-packed shells.
Now, these aren’t just any shells. Composed of 95% calcium carbonate along with small amounts of phosphorus, magnesium, and traces of other minerals, eggshells are a powerhouse of nutrients, primarily boosting soil health. They are similar to garden lime, which is used to raise soil pH levels, enhancing its alkalinity.
This is crucial because calcium is vital for plant growth—it helps develop strong cell walls and new growth areas in roots, shoots, and leaves. It even helps combat blossom-end rot in plants like tomatoes, which suffer from black spots due to calcium shortages.
However, before you start sprinkling crushed eggshells in your garden, it’s wise to check if your plants prefer acidic or alkaline soil. While veggies like tomatoes and peppers thrive with extra calcium, acid-loving plants like blueberries and azaleas might not appreciate it as much. A soil test can tell you if your garden could benefit from that extra calcium boost.
Credit: Vital Farms
Besides garden benefits, eggshells have even been found to enrich coffee by slightly raising its pH and adding a dash of dietary calcium—something my friend Ruth would have cherished had she known. Beyond the garden, recent studies highlight their health benefits, such as improving bone and cartilage formation in people with osteoporosis.
It’s truly a waste to throw these nutrient-rich shells away, especially when they could replace costly garden additives like agricultural lime. Research from Iowa State University even shows that eggshells can reduce soil acidity just as effectively as commercial lime.
Recognized as a viable organic fertilizer, crushed eggshell meal offers a sustainable way to enrich your garden soil, proving that what’s often discarded can provide substantial benefits for both your plants and the planet.
Use Eggshells to Fertilize the Garden
Wondering if your garden could use a calcium boost? It’s a great idea to start with a soil test to check the current calcium levels. For plants like tomatoes that are prone to blossom-end rot, adding calcium can be incredibly beneficial.
A fascinating study in the March 2016 issue of the International Journal of Innovative Research in Science, Engineering, and Technology by researchers Madhavi Gaonkar and A. P. Chakraborty found that finely ground eggshells are an excellent natural calcium source.
They discovered that when eggshells are powdered, they can balance soil calcium effectively, helping to prevent issues like blossom-end rot.
Credit: Gardener’s Supply
However, not all plants thrive in calcium-enriched soil. Acid-loving plants, such as blueberries, prefer more acidic conditions and wouldn’t benefit from alkaline amendments like calcium.
Charles C. Mitchell, an extension agronomist with the Alabama Cooperative Extension, also noted that for eggshells to be effective, they must be ground to a finer consistency than sand to make the calcium readily available to plants.
Beyond just preventing blossom-end rot, finely ground eggshells can also help prevent apple cork spot and serve as an alternative lawn amendment to lime. But before you go all-in with calcium, it’s wise to understand how different plants utilize nutrients and minerals.
Remember, while nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are critical for plant growth, calcium is crucial for developing strong cell walls—the “bones” of a plant.
For practical application, grind eggshells using a mixer, grinder, or mortar and pestle and mix them into your soil. Since eggshells take several months to break down and become absorbed by plant roots, it’s best to incorporate them into the soil during fall preparation.
You can also place finely crushed shells mixed with organic matter at the bottom of planting holes to help new plants thrive, particularly calcium-loving tomatoes.
For a nutrient-rich boost, mix your eggshells with coffee grounds, another excellent nitrogen source, and sprinkle this blend in your garden or planting holes. During the off-season, keep crushing those shells and sprinkle them over the soil to prepare it for spring planting.
Alternatively, for a direct nutrient hit, turn crushed eggshells into a water-soluble calcium solution for your watering can, ensuring the roots absorb it quickly.
Here’s a simple guide to making your own eggshell fertilizer right at home.
Step 1: Collect and Clean
Start by gathering your eggshells. Give them a quick rinse under the tap to get rid of any egg residue—this helps prevent attracting any unwanted pests or odors. Toss them into an ovenproof dish; you can use anything from a cookie sheet to a casserole dish. How quickly it fills up will depend on your egg consumption.
Step 2: Dry
The next time you’re baking, use the opportunity to dry your eggshells. Just place the dish in the oven while it preheats. Keep the temperature below 350°F, especially if you’re using a glass dish to avoid any cracking. This step not only dries them but also sanitizes them by killing potential salmonella.
Step 3: Grind
Once the shells are dry, it’s time to grind them into a fine powder. A blender works best for this—just process them in small batches until they reach a powdery consistency. Store the powder in a mason jar, and consider adding a silica packet to keep it dry if you’re not using it right away.
Usage
Your homemade eggshell powder is perfect for nourishing fruit-bearing plants like tomatoes, strawberries, and eggplants, as well as most flowers and many succulents—just watch the watering. To use, simply sprinkle the powder directly onto the soil around your plants.
Credit: Gardener’s Path
Use Eggshells In Compost
Composting is an incredibly effective way to manage your kitchen waste, including those bits of fruits and veggies you can’t eat. Setting up a compost bin is super simple and can even fit into small spaces like a balcony or your kitchen. You don’t need a big backyard to get started!
You’d be surprised at the variety of kitchen scraps that can go into your compost. Beyond just the usual peels and pits, things like coffee grounds, plastic-free tea bags, and eggshells are perfect for composting.
Turning your food waste into compost not only reduces your environmental impact but also enriches your compost with essential nutrients. Speaking of nutrients, did you know eggshells are packed with calcium, which is vital for most plants to flourish?
If you’ve never thought about composting eggshells, there are some compelling reasons to start. While eggshells take a bit longer to break down due to their hardness, crushing them helps speed up the decomposition process.
Why focus on composting? It keeps waste from ending up in landfills, where it breaks down much slower due to lack of oxygen, making the process smelly and inefficient. In contrast, composting in an aerobic environment helps food waste decompose quickly and cleanly, producing valuable nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and magnesium.
But what about eggshells in compost? It’s best to avoid composting the egg’s insides as they could attract pests and cause odors. Crushed eggshells, however, contribute greatly to the mix. They provide calcium and help maintain the health of your compost pile.
If you’re using a worm bin, crushed eggshells can also aid in worm digestion, as they require grit similar to that which chickens use.
Credit: Pete and Gerry’s Organic Eggs
Before tossing eggshells into your bin, it’s a good idea to rinse and crush them into a fine powder. This ensures they blend seamlessly into your compost, avoiding any large, noticeable pieces, and providing a boost of nutrients that help plants build strong cell walls.
Here’s how to make sure they decompose more quickly, enriching your compost with valuable nutrients.
Crushing Eggshells: Start by crushing the eggshells by hand and throwing them into your compost bin. To speed up their decomposition, grind the shells into a fine powder using a coffee grinder. It’s best to use a separate grinder from the one you use for your coffee to avoid mixing flavors.
Drying Out Eggshells: Before crushing, dry the eggshells to make them easier to smash into tiny bits. You can air-dry them for a few days or speed up the process by spreading them on a cookie sheet and popping them into a warm oven.
Making Liquid Fertilizer: Got a bunch of eggshells? Turn them into a nutritious liquid fertilizer. Boil 10 to 20 eggshells, let the mixture sit overnight, and then strain it. Use this solution to water your plants every couple of weeks, using up to 2 cups per plant.
Eggcellent Seed Starters
Have you ever thought about using eggshells as seed starting containers? This method isn’t just inventive but also eco-friendly and cost-effective.
Eggshells are natural, packed with calcium, and ideal for giving your plants a healthy start. Once your seedlings outgrow their unique homes, you can plant them directly into your garden, shell and all, enriching the soil as they decompose.
Here’s how to get started: first, give your empty eggshells a thorough rinse to remove any egg residue. Then, secure them in an egg carton to keep them upright. Fill each half-shell with potting soil, drop in a seed or two, and gently water them. It’s a delight to watch herbs and flowers sprout right from these shells!
Credit: Gardenista
However, keep in mind that eggshells have their limits. They’re perfect for smaller, low-growing plants like thyme or certain succulents, which won’t outpace their compact space too quickly. Taller plants, like tomatoes, might sprout up fast and will need to be moved to larger pots within a few weeks.
To prepare your eggshells, ensure they are clean and sterile to prevent any plant diseases. Wash them with warm, soapy water or boil them to sanitize. Make sure to poke a few drainage holes in the bottom of each shell to keep the soil well-drained—using a metal paper clip works great for this.
When it’s time to transplant, gently remove the seedling by either lifting it with a small spoon or breaking the shell to free the roots. This careful transfer helps avoid stress and damage to the young plants. So why not give your garden a boost with this sustainable and charming method? It’s a small step towards a greener world, right from your kitchen!
Use as a Pest Deterrent
Want a clever, eco-friendly way to keep pests at bay in your garden? Try scattering crushed eggshells around your plants! This method is particularly effective against cutworms—those pesky caterpillars notorious for snipping off the tops of your tender young seedlings.
By creating a sharp, crunchy barrier with these eggshell pieces, you can protect the delicate stems of your seedlings from these voracious little critters.
However, when it comes to combatting slugs and snails, the effectiveness of eggshells is a bit more debatable. These garden pests, known for munching on leaves, flowers, and fruits, might not be as deterred by the jagged edges of eggshells as one would hope.
In fact, various tests, including the good old slug-on-a-paper-plate experiment, have shown that eggshells do little to stop their slimy trail. Instead of relying on eggshells for slugs, you might want to consider other strategies such as switching to drip irrigation, setting up traps, or installing copper barriers around your plants.
Despite these findings, eggshells can still serve as a deterrent for other garden invaders. For instance, their bright white color can fool cabbage white butterflies into thinking another competitor is nearby, keeping them away from your brassicas.
Also, if you’re dealing with furry felines treating your garden bed like a personal sandbox, the crunchy texture of eggshells can make it less appealing for them.
If you’re thinking of using eggshells to keep pests at bay, try crushing them into coarse, sharp fragments rather than grinding them into powder. After drying and heating your shells as previously mentioned, skip the blender or coffee grinder; these tools tend to make the pieces too fine to effectively scare off pests.
Instead, get hands-on and crush the shells yourself. You can use a mortar and pestle for smaller quantities or a rolling pin on a baking sheet for larger batches. Once crushed, store the shell pieces in a jar, or better yet, take them straight to your garden and sprinkle them around your plants to protect them from unwanted visitors.
While the verdict on eggshells as a slug deterrent remains up in the air, using them in your garden is a safe bet for some level of pest control—plus, they won’t alter your soil’s pH in the short term.
credit: Gardener’s Path
Unlock the Benefits of Boiled Eggshell Water for Your Garden
Next time you whip up a batch of hard-boiled eggs, don’t let that water go to waste! Instead of pouring it down the drain, why not give your garden a little love?
Here’s a simple tip: after boiling eggs, let the water cool to room temperature and then use it to hydrate and nourish your plants. It’s a nifty way to recycle and enrich your garden soil simultaneously.
Here’s how you can make your own eggshell water:
Start by boiling a gallon of water.
Toss in 10-20 cleaned eggshells.
Let the mixture sit and infuse overnight.
The next day, strain out the shells and use the water to quench your plants’ thirst.
This milky concoction can work wonders, providing a gentle nutrient boost to the soil. For optimal results, try giving your plants about two cups of this homemade elixir weekly. You can even store any extra in a sealed container for later use.
But How Effective Is It Really?
You might be curious about the actual benefits of eggshell water. Well, it does provide a modest amount of nutrients. Jeff Gillman, in his book The Truth About Garden Remedies, explores this by noting that a single eggshell can impart around 4 milligrams of calcium and potassium to the water after being steeped for a day—just a tiny fraction of the 2,200 milligrams of calcium typically found in an eggshell.
For a more substantial calcium boost, David Austin from the University of Florida IFAS suggests a different approach. He recommends grinding the shells into a fine powder and adding them directly to your compost or soil, which can provide a more immediate benefit.
So, if you’re looking for a simple way to add a light dose of nutrients to your plants, using boiled egg water is a great option. Not only does it help in reducing waste, but it also provides a sustainable solution to support your garden’s health.
Credit: Healthline
What About Salmonella?
What about the risk of salmonella from using eggshells in your garden? You might wonder if it’s safe to use them, especially since eggs can carry salmonella. However, this is generally not a concern with eggs that are intact and have been thoroughly cleaned.
But just to be on the safe side, I always wash my eggshells thoroughly and dry them on a sunny windowsill before using them anywhere but the compost bin.
To prepare eggshells for the garden, I like to bake them in the oven. This not only dries out the eggshells but also kills any salmonella by drying the sticky inner membrane thoroughly.
Just a quick blast of moist heat at 170.6°F is enough to zap salmonella, and my oven method certainly goes above and beyond that. This means you can use your eggshells in the garden without worry.
Credit: Rural Sprout
If you’re planning to store ground eggshells, perhaps to use as a calcium supplement for your dog, make sure to sterilize them at 200°F for 30 minutes. Once they’re powdered—easily done with a coffee grinder or a mortar and pestle—you can store them in an airtight container. They’ll last indefinitely, which is great!
Now, with that worry out of the way, you can focus on the fun stuff, like planning how to mark the next naked gardening day!
Should You Crush Eggshells or Grind Them to a Powder?
Wondering whether to crush or powder your eggshells? Here’s the scoop: if your plants are showing signs of distress, grinding the shells into a fine powder can be a quick fix. This form allows the calcium to integrate seamlessly into the soil, giving your plants a much-needed boost.
On the other hand, if you’re looking to kick-start your garden or fend off pests, roughly crushed eggshells might be the way to go. They break down slowly, enriching the soil over time and deterring unwelcome critters.
Credit: Backyard Poultry
And let’s not forget about your feathered friends—chickens love eggshells! Tossing them back into their diet is a great way to replenish the calcium they need for laying sturdy, healthy eggs.
Most laying hens require about 4-5 grams of calcium daily, and while oyster shells are a staple in my coop, the hens also enjoy chomping on their own eggshells. It’s an easy, effective way to ensure they’re getting their essential nutrients.
Which Plants Like Eggshells?
Wondering which plants thrive with a sprinkle of eggshells in their soil? Fast-growing plants are prime candidates, as they tend to exhaust the soil’s calcium quickly. Eggshells, rich in calcium carbonate, work best with plants that prefer a less acidic environment.
Think tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, as well as decorative favorites like ivy, hydrangeas, roses, and ferns. They all enjoy the boost from nutrient-rich, eggshell-amended soil.
I recall a time when I spotted unsightly black patches on the underside of our garden’s tomatoes. These otherwise perfect tomatoes looked as though they’d seen better days.
After digging around for answers, I learned these blemishes, known as “blossom end rot,” were due to a calcium deficiency. This is where eggshells come into play, providing that crucial calcium to prevent such issues and promote robust, healthy growth.
Blossom end rot can affect the fruit’s end opposite the stem, leading to decay and reduced yield. It commonly affects tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and squashes like zucchini. Garden lore often suggests placing crushed eggshells directly into planting holes to combat this.
However, for quick effectiveness, it’s better to grind the eggshells into a fine powder. This ensures they decompose swiftly enough to benefit the plants.
But remember, only add eggshells if your soil lacks calcium, as confirmed by a soil test. Excess calcium won’t help and might distract from other care essentials.
For plants already receiving adequate calcium, focus on maintaining consistent soil moisture and avoiding root damage by not digging near the plant base. This balanced approach ensures your plants can absorb available nutrients and remain vibrant and productive.
Isn’t it disappointing when you crunch into a cucumber only to find it’s bitterly disappointing? While they look like the perfect addition to any summer dish, cucumbers can sometimes taste less than refreshing. If you’re not careful, a single bitter bite could totally turn you off your meal.
Cucumbers are part of the nutrient-packed gourd family, loaded with water, vitamins, minerals, and electrolytes, making them a great choice for staying hydrated and cool during hot weather.
Plus, the seeds and skin are not only rich in digestion-supporting compounds like silicon and chlorophyll, but they also boast a high level of sterols that help reduce cholesterol.
Why some cucumbers taste bitter
When I started digging into why some cucumbers taste bitter, I found a fascinating explanation. Cucumbers are part of the gourd family and produce a natural compound called cucurbitacin, which is responsible for their bitter flavor.
This compound acts as a defense mechanism to deter animals and insects from eating them, often concentrating more at the cucumber’s ends.
Cucurbitacins aren’t just a flavor issue; they can also cause illness if ingested in large amounts. It’s advised to cut away the bitter ends of cucumbers or peel them to reduce the bitterness before eating.
Interestingly, the bitterness can vary widely from one cucumber to another. This variance is often due to genetic factors and environmental conditions such as inconsistent watering, excessive heat, or insufficient fertilization, which can all make cucumbers taste more bitter. Temperature swings can also contribute to this issue.
Moreover, cucurbitacins are primarily found in the leaves, stems, and roots of plants like cucumbers and squash, but they can also spread to the fruit. While all cucumbers contain some level of cucurbitacin, the bitterness is much less common in commercially bred varieties found in grocery stores compared to those from farmers’ markets.
While cucurbitacins are safe to eat, they’re not particularly palatable. If you’re curious about reducing the bitterness in your cucumbers or wondering about the safety of cucurbitacins, keep reading to learn how to make your cucumbers more enjoyable.
Rubbing the Ends
One of the easiest and most effective ways to reduce the bitterness in cucumbers is by rubbing the ends. Here’s how it works: simply slice off the tips of the cucumber. Next, use one of the sliced tips to rub the cut ends in a circular motion.
As you do this, you’ll notice a white, foamy substance appearing—that’s the cucurbitacin, which is what gives the cucumber its bitter taste.
Credit: Heart Hook Home
Continue this rubbing action for about 30-50 seconds on each end. This process helps release the cucurbitacin, preventing it from spreading throughout the cucumber, keeping the rest of it fresh and sweet.
After you’re done, just give the cucumber a good rinse under running water. By using this method, not only do you cut down on bitterness, but you also enhance the cucumber’s natural flavor. Give it a try, and taste the difference yourself!
Peeling Away Bitterness
If you’ve ever bitten into a bitter cucumber, here’s a nifty trick to tackle that unpleasant taste. According to James M. Stephens, a professor of vegetable crops at the University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, the bitterness in cucumbers, caused by a compound called cucurbitacin, tends to concentrate in the peel and just beneath it.
To remove it effectively, start peeling from the blossom end—opposite the stem—and work your way toward the stem, stopping about an inch short. Make sure to rinse your knife after each peel to prevent spreading the bitterness. This simple method helps you enjoy your cucumbers at their best, crisp and fresh!
Credit: indiatimes
Fork Furrows Technique
The fork furrows technique is a straightforward, though lesser-known, approach to preparing cucumbers. Start by slicing off the ends of the cucumber and removing the skin. Then, grab a fork and drag its tines along the length of the cucumber, creating grooves.
This process, which should be repeated a couple of times, helps to extract a bitter chemical compound from the cucumber. Make sure to wash it thoroughly before you take a bite. This simple trick not only enhances the taste but also makes your cucumber snack a bit more interesting!
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The Magic of Salt on Cucumbers
While not widely used, the salt sprinkling method can work wonders for your cucumbers. Simply slice your cucumber lengthwise into two halves. Next, lightly dust each cut side with salt and gently rub the halves together. You’ll soon notice a white, foamy substance forming on the surface.
After repeating this a few times, just rinse the halves under cool running water. This quick and easy trick helps enhance the cucumber’s texture and flavor, giving you a crisper bite every time!
Credit: The Kitchn
Simple Fixes for Bitter Cucumbers in Any Dish
When cooking with cucumbers, it’s a smart move to give them a quick taste first to check for bitterness. If they’re fine, you’re all set. But if you detect any bitterness, here are some handy tips for various dishes:
Tzatziki Dip: Start by slicing off the stem end of the cucumber and peeling away the skin and the underlying layer. Since yogurt typically contains a bit of sugar, mixing the cucumber with it helps tone down the bitterness. If it needs a bit more help, gradually add salt until it tastes just right.
Fresh Salads: Again, remove the cucumber’s stem end—you can choose to peel it or not. Direct salting of the cucumber can also help. For salads, consider using Persian or English cucumbers as they tend to be less bitter, although they are pricier. Enhance your salad with a sweet vinaigrette and some rich, fatty cheese for balance.
Strawberry-Cucumber or Watermelon-Cucumber Salad: The natural sweetness of fruits like strawberries or watermelon can beautifully offset cucumber bitterness. Test by eating a slice of strawberry or watermelon with cucumber. If bitterness persists, remove the stem end and skin, and salt the cucumbers before tossing them into the salad.
Gazpacho: This dish often combines cucumbers with green bell peppers, which can be bitter. Consider substituting green peppers with their sweeter red, orange, or yellow counterparts to cut down on the bitterness. If your gazpacho still needs a tweak, adjust the seasoning with a little salt.
Cucumber Salad: Many recipes recommend salting cucumbers to ‘sweat’ out excess water, which also helps reduce bitterness. Adding sour cream and a touch of sugar can further balance the flavors. Adjust with additional salt or sugar at the end if needed.
In Salty Sandwiches Like Gyros and Falafel: The inherent saltiness of these sandwiches generally counters any cucumber bitterness. If necessary, you might still want to trim off the stem end and skin to ensure the perfect bite.
Tips to Avoid Bitter Cucumbers
Nobody likes a bitter cucumber, but luckily, you can take several proactive steps to prevent this from happening when you’re growing your own. Here’s how you can ensure your cucumbers stay sweet and crisp:
Stay Hydrated:
Bitterness in cucumbers often stems from long stretches of hot, dry weather. To combat this, make sure your cucumbers get a deep watering—at least an inch per week, and even more during particularly dry periods.
Installing a drip irrigation system can provide consistent moisture, and adding mulch around the roots or a shade cloth over the plants can keep them cool and hydrated throughout the hottest days.
Boost Your Soil:
Poor, nutrient-starved soil can also lead to bitter cucumbers. Enhance your soil with plenty of organic matter to keep your plants happy. Incorporate compost into your beds before planting, and consider side-dressing with compost during the growing season. For soils that are far from ideal, a balanced fertilizer every four to six weeks can make a big difference.
Eliminate Rivals:
Cucumbers are greedy when it comes to their needs for water and nutrients, so it’s important to reduce competition. Keep your growing area free of weeds and give your cucumber plants enough room to thrive. If you’re using trellises or cages, plant cucumbers about 8-12 inches apart; for mounded plants, leave about 3 feet between them.
Chase the Sun:
If you live in a region with lots of overcast days, like the Pacific Northwest, you might find your cucumbers turning bitter due to insufficient sunlight. While you can’t control the weather, choosing a planting spot that receives as much sunlight as possible can help.
For areas that are cool and damp, consider using a polytunnel to maximize warmth and light exposure, and always avoid planting in the shade of taller crops.
Pick the Right Variety:
Opt for cucumber varieties that produce primarily female flowers, such as Gynoecious types. These varieties are less likely to become bitter since they avoid issues related to pollination.
Remember, while cucumbers generally grow without much fuss and can produce a generous yield, the quality of your harvest hinges on good growing conditions. This includes ample sunshine, consistent watering, and nutrient-rich soil.
Just like any plant, cucumbers thrive when their preferred conditions are met, and even a few days of stress can lead to long-term issues.
While ornamental plants might bounce back, edible plants like cucumbers get just one shot to grow right, so choosing the right growing location and variety is crucial. Put some thought into your garden planning to enjoy the best-tasting cucumbers from your garden!
While we can’t promise these time-tested techniques will completely rid your cucumbers of bitterness, many gardeners find they reduce it significantly. Have you given these methods a go? We’d love to hear about your experience! Plus, if you’ve got any other tricks for sweetening up cucumbers, feel free to share them with us.
When I returned to my garden after a week away, I was greeted by an unexpected sight: weeds had taken over! Before leaving, I had meticulously hoed the area but didn’t get a chance to clear away the debris.
Typically, the relentless August sun would wither any remaining weed bits, but my timing was off. A few hefty thunderstorms had rolled in during my absence, providing just enough moisture to keep those weed stalks from drying out.
Most of the severed weeds did meet their end, except for the tenacious purslane. This little plant, popping up in abundance, shrugged off my hoeing efforts. Purslane thrives with its drought-resistant, succulent leaves. Even tiny stem fragments can root themselves and flourish, thanks to its robust central taproot that springs back if not fully removed.
So, is purslane a problem or a perk in the garden? Well, it’s both! It can be a nuisance or a boon, depending on how you manage it. Knowing your enemies as well as your crops is crucial in gardening, and purslane is one common adversary.
But don’t write it off—purslane can also be grown year-round as a crunchy microgreen or enjoyed all summer as a leafy vegetable.
Cultivating purslane can be tricky, as it tends to spread eagerly. For a successful harvest, timing is everything—pick the leaves at the right moment for peak flavor. And once you’ve got a bunch, there are plenty of delicious ways to use them. Let’s explore how to make the most of this versatile green.
An Introduction to Purslane
Purslane, scientifically known as Portulaca oleracea, pops up worldwide, thriving in various environments from lush gardens to the cracks of city sidewalks. This hardy plant is a member of the Portulacaceae family, widely recognized for its resilience and ability to adapt.
It’s believed to have originated in regions like North Africa or the Middle East and had spread across Europe and North America long before modern times. Today, you’ll find purslane naturalized almost everywhere, growing during the warmest months, thanks to its remarkable drought resistance.
Known also by names like pigweed, little hogweed, and redroot, purslane features succulent, reddish stems and small yellow flowers that bloom briefly on sunny mornings. It’s a historical favorite, cultivated for over 4,000 years both as a food source and for medicinal purposes.
Despite its benefits, purslane can be a persistent weed, particularly in vegetable plots and among row crops like cotton and sugar beets, where it competes fiercely for space and nutrients.
Whether it’s peeking through your lawn or sprouting alongside plantains and dandelions, purslane is a common yet remarkable plant that combines historical significance with modern-day resilience.
Common Purslane Identification
Common purslane is a vibrant plant, sporting fleshy red stems and glossy oval leaves, both packed with over 90% water. It bursts into life with tiny yellow blooms and can regenerate even from stem fragments.
This hardy summer annual produces minuscule, glossy black seeds about 1 millimeter across, which can stay dormant in the soil for decades, anywhere from 20 to 40 years.
These seeds spring to life once the soil warms up above 25°C, ideally at 30°C. Surprisingly fast, purslane can start producing seeds just three weeks after sprouting, with each plant potentially churning out over 200,000 seeds.
In one corner of the garden, purslane thrives uniquely, forming a lush mat where other weeds have been hoed away, monopolizing the space. It belongs to the Portulaceae family, which also includes the ornamental wingpod purslane (P. umbraticola) and moss rose (P. grandiflora), primarily grown for their striking blooms rather than culinary or medicinal uses.
The perennial wingpod features green, rounded leaves and yellow flowers atop reddish stems, while the annual moss rose, a desert dweller, flaunts spiky leaves and blooms in a spectrum of colors.
Purslane itself resembles a miniature jade plant and is entirely edible—leaves, stems, flowers, and seeds alike can be enjoyed raw or cooked. Its leaves offer a unique taste—slightly citrusy and salty with a peppery, juicy crunch similar to arugula.
Its charming yellow flowers, complete with five petals and vibrant yellow stamens, blossom from midsummer to early fall. When pollinated, these flowers swiftly turn into a bounty of tiny seeds.
Credit: Clemson University
As a quick-growing, herbaceous annual, purslane spreads out with multiple smooth, reddish stems from a single taproot, covering areas up to 3 feet in diameter. Depending on moisture levels, it can grow low or stretch up to 16 inches tall. The water-storing leaves are fleshy, spoon-shaped, and clasp directly onto the reddish-tinted stems without any petioles.
Flowers bloom abundantly in the right moisture conditions, opening their petals to the midmorning sun and closing by early afternoon, revealing a bundle of seeds when mature. Despite attracting pollinators, purslane mainly self-fertilizes, ensuring a continual seed supply with minimal external help.
Is Purslane Invasive?
Purslane might just surprise you—it’s technically considered an invasive weed. Originating from India and China, this hardy plant has made its way across all continents. It’s incredibly adaptable, thriving in various environments and reproducing at an impressive rate.
Purslane can sprout roots from any part of its stem where leaves typically grow, and its seeds are capable of germinating after decades dormant in the soil. What’s more, it doesn’t even need pollination to produce seeds. This plant loves moisture but is also remarkably drought-resistant.
But does “invasive” always mean unwanted? In my experience, purslane spreads quickly and can dominate a garden if not kept in check. However, labeling a plant as invasive when it’s also edible gives it a new perspective. To me, “invasive edible” translates to “plenty of food.” Isn’t that a good thing?
Monty Don once said, “Some plants become weeds simply by virtue of their success rather than any other factor. You merely want less of them.” Not everyone shares my enthusiasm for this nutritious green, though. The United States Department of Agriculture classifies it as a “noxious weed,” and its cultivation is restricted in some areas.
However, don’t be too quick to dismiss it. Purslane is gaining recognition as a “superfood,” making appearances in upscale dining and farm-to-table eateries nationwide. So, depending on your local regulations, it might be worth giving this robust plant a chance in your culinary adventures
Why You Might Want to Keep Purslane in Your Garden
Purslane, often dismissed as a pesky weed, actually packs a punch with its garden benefits. Here’s why keeping it under control in your garden can be a smart move:
Culinary Benefits
Purslane has been a staple in global cuisines for centuries, originally introduced to this continent over 500 years ago by Europeans unaware of the consequences of bringing foreign plants to new lands. You’ll find it thriving in farm fields, gardens, and wild landscapes alike.
I discovered its culinary uses quite by accident when someone mentioned that the purslane overtaking my garden was actually edible. After tasting it for the first time, my perception of it completely changed.
Not only can you enjoy purslane raw in salads—where it adds a crisp texture and a pleasant flavor—but it’s also great in cooked dishes. Whether stir-fried or tossed into a soup or stew, purslane lends a thickening effect to broths thanks to its mucilaginous quality.
Nutritionally, purslane is a powerhouse. It stands out for its high levels of omega-3 fatty acids, rivaling sources traditionally found in fish and flax seeds. It’s packed with vitamins A and C, along with minerals like calcium, iron, magnesium, and potassium.
This plant is also rich in antioxidants, making it a valued addition to a health-conscious diet. While it’s incredibly beneficial, those prone to kidney stones should note its high oxalate content, similar to spinach, and enjoy it in moderation.
Today, I snack on it during garden weeding sessions, and incorporate it into my meals just like spinach, using it in everything from salads and smoothies to stir-fries and omelets. Just a heads up—before adding new items to your diet, it’s wise to consult with your physician.
Natural Groundcover Wonder
Purslane’s invasive nature isn’t all bad—it thrives close to the ground, spreading into a lush carpet that effectively blocks out other weeds. This natural groundcover helps maintain cooler, moister soil, acting like living mulch.
However, it’s important to keep it in check to prevent it from overwhelming your other plants. I make it a habit to trim purslane regularly, especially around taller veggies like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, ensuring it supports rather than smothers my garden.
Rich Source of Organic Material
Thanks to its rapid growth, purslane is a goldmine for generating compost material. Gone are the days when I needed to source organic waste from elsewhere—purslane provides all I need, right from my backyard.
Just remember, when adding purslane to your compost, make sure it’s a hot compost pile. This step is crucial as it kills off any lingering seeds, stopping purslane from popping up unwanted in your garden beds.
Purslane doesn’t just cover your soil or bulk up your compost—it also competes minimally with vegetable crops for water and nutrients, making it an eco-friendly alternative to chemical herbicides.
Researchers are even exploring its potential as a natural weed suppressant for food crops. By managing it wisely, purslane can be more of a gardening ally than an enemy.
Propagating Purslane
You can propagate purslane in several ways, including from seeds, stem cuttings, divisions, or transplants. Finding seeds or plants locally might be a bit of a challenge, though.
Seeding Purslane
Kickstarting your garden with purslane seeds is a smart move. Once established, a single purslane plant can produce over 50,000 seeds! You won’t need to buy seeds again, especially if you opt for cultivated varieties. These are designed to grow upright and have larger leaves, and you can find their seeds from numerous sellers.
While you might stumble upon seeds for wild varieties online, I’d advise caution. Wild purslane can be invasive, overwhelming your garden with its prolific seed production. If you’re curious, try a cultivated type instead—it’s less likely to spread uncontrollably.
When planting, wait until the frost has cleared and the soil warms up to about 60°F. Sprinkle the seeds on moist soil and press lightly—don’t bury them, as they need light to germinate. In about a week to ten days, you’ll see sprouts. Let them grow a bit, then thin the seedlings to about eight inches apart.
You can start seeds indoors too, about three weeks before the last frost. Once they’ve got a set of true leaves, and it’s frost-free outside, they’re ready to move outdoors. Don’t forget to acclimate them to outdoor conditions by gradually increasing their sun exposure over a week.
Credit: Family Handyman
Propagating from Stem Cuttings
Purslane’s robust spreading isn’t limited to its seeds. Stem cuttings can also form new plants, making propagation a breeze—or a challenge if it starts to take over. To propagate, cut a six-inch stem from an existing plant. Strip the leaves from the bottom half and plant it in potting soil, ensuring half of the stem is buried.
Keep it in a spot with bright, indirect light and maintain moist soil. In about a week, your cutting should start to root firmly in the soil. Alternatively, you can plant one-inch stem pieces directly in the garden, just a quarter-inch deep. New plants will usually start to emerge in a few weeks.
Transplanting Made Easy
Transplanting purslane is straightforward. Simply dig it up with a trowel, keeping the roots and stems intact. Plant it in a new hole, no deeper than it was originally, and backfill with soil. Keep in mind that purslane can regrow from any part left in the ground, so you might see new sprouts where it was previously planted.
Credit: gardenerspath
Growing Purslane
Purslane thrives in the sunshine, so make sure to plant it where it’ll get plenty of direct light. If you’re aiming for a burst of blooms, however, a spot with a bit of afternoon shade can boost its flowering potential.
This resilient plant loves the heat—places near brick walls or concrete, where other plants falter, make perfect homes for purslane as it revels in temperatures above 70°F and can handle heat up to 100°F.
Don’t worry too much about soil quality with purslane; it’s famously unfussy, growing just as happily in the gaps of a sidewalk as in a garden bed. For optimal growth, choose an average, well-draining soil with a pH between 5.5 and 7.5.
Despite its ability to grow in less than ideal soil conditions—from nutrient-rich muck to dense clay—it does best in warm conditions and will need regular watering, although it’s quite drought-tolerant.
When planting purslane in your vegetable garden, you can start from seed and expect to harvest in about 6-8 weeks. Plant in fertile, well-drained soil and space seedlings 4 to 6 inches apart.
You can harvest the entire plant or cut back the stems to just two inches above the crown to encourage regrowth, which provides a continuous supply of edible leaves throughout the summer.
Purslane is also easy-going when it comes to feeding; a little compost at planting time does the trick, and it doesn’t require frequent fertilization. Overwatering is a no-go for this succulent, as it prefers drier conditions.
To check if it’s time to water, a simple finger test works—stick your finger into the soil, and if it feels dry up to your first knuckle, it’s watering time. Remember, water at the soil level to prevent fungal issues.
To manage its growth and prevent it from overtaking your garden, trim purslane back to two inches above the soil line or harvest it completely before it blooms. Adding an inch of organic mulch like wood chips in midsummer can also help control its spread by blocking the sunlight necessary for seed germination.
For those with limited space or to prevent its spread, container growing is an excellent option for purslane. And if you’re into microgreens, purslane makes a tangy, juicy option that grows fast on a sunny windowsill.
Just use a flat, wide container filled with at least half an inch of potting mix, sprinkle the seeds, and keep the soil moist. You’ll be ready to start snipping microgreens in just a couple of weeks!
Credit: Advanced Turf Solutions
Choosing the Right Purslane Varieties
When you’re browsing for purslane at your local nursery, you’ll likely come across a couple of popular types. ‘Gruner Red’ and ‘Goldberg’ are favorites among gardeners and are often readily available. However, watch out for plants labeled as ornamentals, as these might have been treated with chemicals not suitable for eating.
Here’s a quick rundown of some common purslane varieties you might find:
Common Purslane: This standard variety sprawls low to the ground and can spread as much as 18 inches. It’s the kind you might have noticed creeping around your garden before.
Golden Purslane: A bit more refined, this cultivar sports tender, yellow-green leaves and stands about 10 inches tall at full growth.
Goldgelber Purslane: Fast-growing, this variety reaches its full spread of 12 inches wide and 6 inches tall in just 26 days.
Gruner Red Purslane: Notable for its pinkish stems that contrast with its thick, green, oval leaves, this type grows up to 12 inches tall.
Managing Pests and Disease
Purslane is quite the resilient herb and usually avoids most pests and diseases. However, keep an eye out for a few potential troubles:
Purslane Blotchmine Sawfly
Look out for the sawfly larvae known as Schizocerella pilicornis, which burrow through the leaves, leaving dark, blotchy marks. These pests can devastate an entire crop. They morph into pale, yellow larvae that go underground for pupation. The adult sawflies, dark and about half an inch long, have a brief lifespan of just a day, making them hard to catch.
They breed multiple generations each year and use purslane exclusively as their host. You might spot these in hemp fields too, where purslane often grows wild.
If you notice larvae or their damage, manually remove them, sprinkle diatomaceous earth around your plants, squash any damaged leaves to kill the larvae, or remove them altogether. Inviting parasitic wasps into your garden could also help control these pests.
Portulaca Leafmining Weevil
Another pest, the Hypurus bertrandi weevil, has larvae that tunnel through the leaves, causing significant damage. The adults nibble on the leaves, stems, and seed pods but aren’t as destructive as the larvae.
Common purslane is their sole host. Found often in fruit orchards, you can control these with Spinosad, an insecticide best applied at night when the insects are most active. Encouraging parasitic wasps like Diglyphus isaea to your garden can also be beneficial in managing these weevils.
Fungus – Black Stem Rot
This is the primary disease that affects purslane, usually due to overwatering or a damp environment. Signs include black lesions on stems that might spread to the leaves. To combat this, use sulfur or copper-based fungicides, or for mild cases, apply neem oil regularly to keep the fungus at bay.
Essential Tips for Harvesting and Preserving Purslane
Harvesting Tips for Garden Freshness
You’ll be ready to start picking your plants around 50 days after planting those seeds. Did you know the time you choose to harvest affects the taste? If you head out in the morning, you’ll find the leaves have a sharper, more tart flavor due to higher malic acid levels.
Prefer something sweeter? Evening picks have less acid, giving the leaves a milder taste. Why not try harvesting at different times to see which flavor you like best?
When it’s time to harvest, just grab your scissors, snip what you need, and stash it somewhere cool right away. Whether you cut a single stem or go for a big chop, make sure to leave at least 2 inches of the plant above the soil.
This way, it can regrow—perfect for continuous harvesting. Speaking of which, if you’re planning a large salad, why not trim the whole plant? Just remember to leave several inches at the base for regrowth. With good care, you can enjoy up to three harvests from each plant annually.
A Quick Safety Note
If you’re picking purslane in the wild or buying ornamental varieties, watch out—they might have been treated with chemicals. When in doubt, it’s best to skip eating them.
Keeping Your Greens Fresh
To keep your harvested leaves and stems fresh, wrap them in a cotton cloth or pop them in a plastic bag in the fridge’s crisper drawer. They’ll stay fresh for about a week, even longer if you skip washing them before refrigeration.
Got more greens than you can use? Drying them is a great option. Dried purslane works wonders as a thickener in soups or desserts. Just remove the leaves from the stems, spread them in a single layer on a tray, and dry them at 135°F using a dehydrator or oven until they’re brittle. Once dry, you can crush them into a powder to jazz up your soups and smoothies.
Guide to Cooking with Purslane
Purslane’s mild flavor makes it a versatile addition to a variety of dishes. Whether you’re tossing it into a salad with lettuce, tomatoes, and cucumbers, or pairing it with eggs and fish, it complements many ingredients beautifully. I’m a big fan of pickled purslane myself.
Credit: thespruceeats
To whip up a quick batch, simply chop the leaves, pack them into a jar, and cover them with a boiling vinegar brine—a blend of apple cider vinegar, water, sugar, and pickling spices is my go-to.
Seal the jar and let it chill in the fridge for about a week. The pickled leaves are a tasty addition to potato salads or can be used as a topping on open-faced mackerel sandwiches.
Fresh or sautéed, purslane works wonders in soups too. I particularly love adding it to a chilled cucumber purslane soup during those hot summer days. Or, stuff some fresh leaves into trout and roast with butter and lemon for a delightful meal.
Credit: Food & Wine
When winter rolls around, and my home-grown purslane microgreens are thriving, I toss them into a grain salad with pomegranate seeds and cooked barley for a fresh touch.
Cooking purslane right is key—either eat it raw or cook it thoroughly. Partial cooking can leave it with a slimy texture, akin to okra. These days, I’ve been incorporating wild purslane into my meals more frequently. It’s packed with nutrients, including an impressive amount of omega-3 fatty acids—actually five times more than spinach.
You can enjoy purslane simply by adding it to your salads or sandwiches. Both the stems and leaves are edible, and just 3.5 ounces make up one serving. The flavor of purslane is slightly tart and salty, which intensifies under hot, dry conditions due to its unique photosynthesis process, capturing carbon dioxide at night to conserve moisture.
For a delightful breakfast, try sautéing mushrooms or onions in coconut oil, add purslane right before the eggs, and season with sea salt and pepper. If you’re into pickling, don’t discard those stems!
They can be cut, packed into jars with onions, covered with a homemade brine, and preserved through water-bath canning. There are many recipes online for pickling purslane, each offering a unique twist on this nutritious plant.
Battling Common Purslane in Your Garden
Dealing with common purslane can be tricky, as chopping it up with a hoe might just cause this stubborn weed to grow back from its fragments. A more effective approach is to remove the whole plant and either burn it or add it to your compost heap.
Laying down a combination of thick black plastic or a layer of straw over newspaper can also block this weed from taking over your backyard garden.
When it comes to larger areas, herbicides might be necessary. For instance, mesotrione (often sold as Tenacity) is great for preventing purslane in newly seeded cool-season lawns. In your garden beds or landscaped areas, consider pre-emergent options like isoxaben or indaziflam to stop purslane before it starts.
For existing lawn invasions, a mix of selective herbicides such as 2,4-D, dicamba, mecoprop, and carfentrazone can be your best bet, particularly in the early growth stages of the weed.
Quick Tips to Keep Purslane in Check:
Tackle it early—use a hula or hoop hoe to disrupt its growth when it’s young.
Make regular garden patrols part of your routine to spot any new invaders.
Pull out purslane before it blooms, or try solarization by covering the soil with a clear plastic sheet to scorch the weed with concentrated sunlight.
Apply a thick layer of mulch (at least 3 inches) around your plants to suppress weed growth.
Get down and dirty by weeding by hand, making sure to extract the roots before the plants flower and ensuring you remove as much of the plant as possible.
While purslane might find a welcome spot in your home recipes, remember to clear it out from community garden plots to keep the peace with your fellow gardeners.
Growing fruit trees like apples, pears, cherries, or apricots in your own backyard can be an absolute delight. Imagine the joy of picking a ripe, organic fruit directly from the branch! Yet, cultivating these trees isn’t without its challenges.
They can suffer from pests, diseases, low yields, and nutrient deficiencies—apple trees, in particular, are famously tricky to manage.
But here’s the good news: Despite these hurdles, North Americans are undeterred. Every year, many of us head to our local garden centers, eager to bring home an apple tree, often overlooking the potential difficulties. However, a bit of knowledge can go a long way.
This guide is packed with all the essentials you’ll need to start your apple-growing adventure. From caring for your trees and tackling common problems to ensuring your apples are as juicy as can be, we’ve got you covered. Get ready to enjoy the fruits of your labor!
About Apples
You don’t need a sprawling orchard to grow your own apples—even a modest backyard has room for a couple of dwarf apple trees or a neatly trained apple espalier. For those in central and northern regions, spring is the best time to plant. However, if you’re blessed with mild, moist winters, a fall planting could also thrive.
When choosing where to plant apple trees, climate plays a big role. Hardy apple trees flourish in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 5, while long-season varieties do best in Zones 5 to 8. Not sure of your zone? It’s worth checking out. Local gardening catalogs and your Cooperative Extension Service can offer insights about the best varieties for your locale.
Also, each apple variety requires a certain number of chill hours—temperatures between 32 and 45 degrees F—to bear fruit, with more chill hours needed the further north you are.
Many folks wonder if they can grow apple trees from seeds. While planting a seed from your favorite apple variety is possible, the tree that grows will likely differ from its parent in size, hardiness, and fruit quality.
For instance, a Honeycrisp seed won’t produce Honeycrisp apples. Also, it takes about 8-10 years for a seed-grown tree to start producing, so patience is a must! Nonetheless, it can be a fun gardening project.
Here’s how to plant those apple seeds: they need a stint in cool, moist conditions before they’ll sprout. You can mimic nature by sowing them half an inch deep in the fall, or simulate winter by chilling them in moist sand inside your fridge for a few months before planting.
Growing apples isn’t without its challenges—pests and diseases are common, and organic growing can be particularly tough, especially on the East Coast. It often involves extensive research and a solid strategy for pest control without relying on heavy pesticide use.
Remember, apple trees require a partner for cross-pollination. Planting two different cultivars that bloom at the same time ensures you’ll get a good crop, and don’t forget the importance of bees for pollination.
Just two trees can provide a generous harvest, enough to enjoy fresh and share with friends. And don’t worry about space; most apple trees are grafted onto dwarfing rootstocks and only reach about 8-10 feet tall, so they can fit into smaller gardens just fine.
Credit: Ascent Yard Care
Getting Ready to Plant Apple Trees
Ideal Planting Times:
Plant bare-root apple trees early in the spring when you can easily work the soil. These trees are not only more affordable but also offer a wider variety from fruit nurseries, available mainly from October to March.
You can plant apple trees grown in containers any time during the growing season. Just remember to keep them well-watered, especially during the drier, hotter summer months.
Choosing the Perfect Spot:
Apple trees thrive in full sunlight, needing at least 8 hours of direct sun daily. When selecting a location, ensure it gets plenty of sunshine.
Soil Quality Check:
Apple trees are pretty flexible about soil types but avoid areas where water tends to collect. They do best in soils with a pH of 6 to 7.
Conduct a soil test to check pH levels and ensure there’s no standing water. If the pH isn’t ideal, make amendments based on your test results to create the perfect growing environment.
Site Selection Tips:
Opt for a spot that offers good air circulation and drainage, essential for keeping diseases at bay.
Avoid low-lying areas known as frost pockets, where cold air settles, and instead, choose a slightly elevated area to ensure cold air flows away.
Steer clear of areas near woods or other large trees to prevent shading and competition.
Spacing Your Trees:
Allow room for growth: Ensure there’s as much space in width as your apple tree will reach in height. For instance, if you expect your tree to grow 8 feet tall, plant it at least 8 feet away from other trees.
Here’s a quick spacing guide:
Standard trees need about 20-25 feet between them.
Semi-dwarf trees require 12-15 feet.
Dwarf varieties should be spaced about 6-8 feet apart.
Credit: University of Minnesota Extension
Planting Your Apple Tree
Getting ready to plant your apple tree starts with clearing a 4-foot wide circle of any weeds or grass. Once you’ve got your tree, make sure it stays protected from damage, drying out, and extreme temperatures. If the roots have dried, give them a good 24-hour soak in water before you plant.
When choosing where to plant, consider the tree’s rootstock and the soil’s fertility, as these will determine how far apart your trees should be. Standard apple trees usually need 15 to 18 feet of space between them, whereas dwarf varieties can be planted 4 to 8 feet apart.
Remember, apple trees need a buddy to cross-pollinate, so plant a different apple cultivar within 2,000 feet—closer is better—to ensure they blossom at the same time.
Credit: Gurney’s
Dig a hole that’s about twice the width of the tree’s roots and 2 feet deep. Mix the removed soil on a tarp for easy replacement and add up to one-third compost or peat moss for better growth. It’s crucial not to add any fertilizer at this stage to avoid root damage.
Place your tree in the hole so that the roots are spread out and not bunched up or twisted. Cover them with the excavated soil, pressing down as you fill to avoid air pockets. Make sure the graft union, the bump where the trunk meets the rootstock, is about 4 inches above ground to prevent unwanted rooting that could lead the tree to grow too large.
For trees in containers, check for any roots circling the container and straighten them out or slice through them to encourage a strong, healthy root system and prevent future problems. Once your tree is standing straight, finish filling the hole, tamp down gently, and water thoroughly to settle the soil.
If you notice the soil settling after planting, just top it up. Since dwarf apple trees can topple under heavy fruit loads, think about using a trellis or other support to keep them upright. You can even plant them next to a fence for natural support.
How To Care For Your Apple Trees
Watering
Keeping your apple trees hydrated is key to their growth, especially during dry periods. Aim to give your trees about one inch of water each week, either from rainfall or direct watering, from May through October. This ensures the roots, the lifeline of your trees, receive ample moisture to thrive.
Particularly with young apple trees, which rely on consistent moisture to establish a robust root system, regular watering is crucial. For those on semi-dwarfing or dwarfing rootstocks, it’s even more essential.
In our own orchard, for example, we water our young saplings up to three times a week, delivering around 15 gallons each session due to our clay-rich soil that holds water well. If your garden has sandy soil, you might need to water even more often to maintain moisture levels.
After the first three to four months, you can ease up a bit. By then, your apple trees should be more settled and can do with watering once a week as they begin to draw more water independently.
Mature apple trees are another story. These hardy specimens have extensive root systems that draw significant moisture and nutrients from the ground. Typically, they only need extra watering during prolonged dry spells or intense heat.
It might be tempting to want a one-size-fits-all watering schedule, but the truth is, it varies by environment. While I can’t pinpoint the exact needs for every scenario, I can offer a couple of tips to optimize your watering technique:
Focus on the roots: Water the soil around the roots rather than the trunk, branches, or leaves, which could promote fungal diseases and wood rot. Skip the sprinklers and opt for a soaker hose or hand watering to target the root zone effectively.
Water deeply but not too often: Allow deep water penetration and then let the soil dry out between sessions. This method encourages healthier root growth and prevents issues like root rot, ensuring your apple trees get just the hydration they need without overdoing it.
Giving your apple trees a strong start is key! For the first few years, it’s wise to stake your tree to help it stand straight and strong. You can use either a wooden or metal stake, making sure it’s tall enough to match the tree’s height after driving it two feet into the soil.
Credit: Simple Garden Life
When tying the tree to the stake, opt for a wide, soft material to avoid any damage to the bark—narrow options like wire or twine could dig in and harm the tree.
Training is crucial for developing a robust branch structure, especially for apple trees that will eventually bear the weight of heavy fruit. For dwarf varieties, a trellis or posts are necessary, along with training them to grow with a central leader. Larger standard or semi-dwarf trees thrive with a modified leader system.
Don’t forget about tree guards when you plant! These handy protectors, typically plastic and easy to find at your local nursery or online, shield the trunk from cold injuries and pests like voles and rabbits. They also fend off sunscald by reflecting sunlight.
This condition occurs when the bark warms and the underlying water thaws, then refreezes rapidly as temperatures drop, which can be damaging. Once your tree matures and develops a rugged, flaky bark, it becomes resistant to these threats, making tree guards unnecessary. Until then, protecting your young tree’s trunk is essential for its health and vitality.
Fertilizer and mulch
Just like us, apple trees need their version of a balanced diet to thrive. They pull nutrients from the soil, which fuels their growth and helps them produce delicious, nutritious fruit. Neglecting to feed your apple tree properly might lead to lackluster fruit, or worse, no fruit at all.
Many new apple growers either don’t fertilize enough or use potent fertilizers found at garden centers, which can sometimes do more harm than good. These products might not suit your specific soil conditions and can damage both your tree and its environment.
That’s why I recommend keeping it simple with nutrient-rich mulch as the best fertilizer for apple trees. Just spread it around the base each spring, and you’ll nourish the tree without the risk of overfertilizing.
Once your tree is comfortably settled in nutrient-rich soil and a good location, it usually needs minimal additional fertilization. Just top up the mulch now and then, making sure to keep it away from the trunk to prevent rot and deter rodents.
Typically, the only nutrient you need to add yearly is nitrogen, which you can easily supply with compost. Keep an eye on the growth rate of your apple tree’s branches: young, non-fruit-bearing trees should grow about 12 to 18 inches annually, while fruit-bearing branches will grow 8 to 12 inches.
If your tree grows more vigorously than this, skip the compost to avoid excessive growth that could hinder fruit development and increase susceptibility to diseases like fireblight.
Here’s a tip for applying mulch: in the early spring, lay down two inches of compost or an inch of well-rotted manure, extending it to the drip line of the tree’s canopy. Make sure the mulch doesn’t touch the trunk to prevent disease and pest issues.
Think of your mulch application as forming a donut shape around the tree’s base—the trunk is the hole, with a clear space of about six inches before the mulch starts.
Stay away from nutrient spikes and synthetic fertilizers. Over-fertilization can irreversibly spoil the soil and potentially kill your tree. Instead, monitor your tree’s health and growth, and consider soil testing every few years to tailor your fertilization practices. This approach will help maintain a healthy, fruitful apple tree.
If you find you need something different, options like leaf mulch, bio-fertilizers, and dehydrated chicken manure are also worth considering.
Pruning Apple Trees
Pruning is crucial if you’re steering clear of chemicals in your apple orchard. It not only keeps your trees in top health but also wards off pests and diseases naturally. Here’s why you should keep your pruning tools handy:
Boost Tree Health: Pruning enhances air flow through the branches, creating conditions unfavorable for pests and fungal infections, which prefer dark, moist environments.
Ensure Even Sunlight Exposure: Regular pruning ensures every branch gets its share of sunlight, crucial for the even ripening and coloring of your apples.
Build a Strong Framework: Proper pruning techniques help develop a robust structure, supporting fewer but stronger branches that can bear heavy fruit loads without breaking.
Start Right Away: Begin pruning the day you plant your tree to set the foundation for healthy growth.
Care for Mature Trees: Older trees require gentle, gradual pruning to restore vitality.
For young trees, go easy on pruning to avoid slowing their growth. Instead of heavy cutting, you can:
Rub off misplaced buds early.
Temporarily tie down stems to encourage branching and fruiting.
Once your tree matures, prune annually to maintain its shape and size. Remember, more mature trees need a more thorough pruning. Here are a few tips:
Prune during dormancy.
Remove vigorous, upright stems and weak twigs.
Manage droopy or overcrowded branches to rejuvenate the tree’s fruiting potential.
General Pruning Tips:
Always remove diseased or dead branches.
Eliminate branches that grow downward or cross each other.
Keep the tree’s trunk clear of any large branches and suckers.
Make precise cuts close to the branch collar to avoid damaging the tree.
Credit: The spruce
By pruning your apple trees each year in late winter or early spring, you promote healthier, more productive trees. This practice helps maintain the desired shape and ensures optimal fruit quality by facilitating better sunlight penetration and air circulation within the canopy.
If you inherit an old, neglected apple tree, don’t despair. With a bit of strategic pruning, you can gradually restore its glory and boost its yield.
Training young trees
When you’re shaping young trees, it’s not just about trimming; training the branches is key too. Training involves gently bending the younger, pliable branches from a vertical growth pattern to a more horizontal one, ideally at about a 60-degree angle from the main trunk.
This approach varies with the type of apple tree—some naturally grow branches at the perfect angle, while others shoot straight up and need more guidance.
Positioning branches at this 60-degree angle isn’t just for looks—it actually helps slow down leaf and branch overgrowth while boosting fruit production. Vertical branches tend to grow fast and furious, but they’re less productive when it comes to fruits and more prone to snapping under the weight.
On the other hand, branches with wider angles at their joints are stronger and can handle the heft of the harvest much better.
Avoid flattening the branches completely; they should still arc upwards slightly. If a branch is in the right spot but too upright, you can insert a “spreader” (a simple tool like a notched stick available at garden centers) to widen the angle without damaging the tree.
For really young branches, those under six inches, try using a wooden spring-type clothespin:
Attach the clothespin to the main leader of the branch.
Slot the tender shoot between the clothespin’s ends to guide its growth.
Adjust the clothespin along the leader to perfect the angle. Make sure to remove any spreaders once the growing season wraps up to avoid any unintended harm to the tree as it matures.
Thinning Apples
If you’ve got an apple tree and the blooming conditions are just right, you’re in for a treat—an abundant apple harvest! However, it’s normal for some apples to fall off around mid-June.
Even then, the tree might still be overloaded, which can lead to what’s known as biennial bearing. This means one year, you’ll see a massive bunch of small, underdeveloped apples, and the next year, hardly any.
To prevent this and to boost the size and quality of your apples, thinning them by hand is the way to go. Here’s how you can do it:
Aim to keep just one or two apples per flower cluster or space them out about 4 to 6 inches apart on each branch for the best quality.
The best time to thin is when the apples are about the size of a marble, typically in late June or early July, after the tree has naturally shed some of its fruit.
Regular thinning not only enhances the apples’ quality by fall but also ensures a more consistent annual yield.
Credit: LifeCycles Project
While apple trees often lose some fruit naturally during the spring, taking extra steps post-drop can ward off diseases and pests. Thinning to one apple per cluster or maintaining a 6 to 8 inches gap between the fruits after this natural drop can make a big difference.
It might seem tough to pluck these potential apples, but this tactic balances out your harvests, prevents limb damage from excess weight, and guarantees tastier, larger apples. After the initial fruit set, it’s also a good idea to remove the smallest or damaged fruits, keeping about four inches between those left on the tree.
Managing pests and diseases
Keeping your apple tree flourishing and loaded with fruit means staying ahead of any pests and diseases it might face throughout its life. It’s crucial to nip these issues in the bud early because once they spread, they become much harder to manage.
Start by familiarizing yourself with common apple tree ailments. Some you might encounter include apple scab, canker, fire blight, and pests like apple maggots and codling moths, among others. The good news? Once you know what signs to look for, managing these issues organically can be straightforward.
For instance, some diseases can be halted by simply pruning affected areas. Other issues may be preventable with organic anti-fungal sprays, and certain pests can be kept at bay with a yearly application of the right dormant oil.
When it comes to pest control, timing is everything. It’s essential to apply any treatments during specific stages of your apple tree’s bloom and fruit development—never by the calendar alone.
This careful timing helps protect bees and ensures effective pollination. If you prefer to steer clear of pesticides, there are natural alternatives, like enclosing each apple in a paper bag, although this method is labor-intensive.
Remember, seeing some damage doesn’t spell disaster. Apple trees are quite prolific, and a few nibbled fruits don’t mean a total loss. In fact, apples that have been slightly damaged by insects can still be enjoyed after cutting away the affected parts.
For managing diseases, the most straightforward prevention method is to plant varieties resistant to common diseases like apple scab and fire blight. Keeping the area around your apple trees clean—free of fallen leaves, fruit, and debris—is another effective strategy.
For specific diseases like apple scab, look for early signs on the leaves and control it by keeping the area clean and using organic fungicides if necessary.
Fire blight can be a bit trickier, presenting as a bacterial infection that might kill shoots and even whole trees. Preventative steps include choosing resistant varieties, ensuring good air circulation around your tree, and maintaining cleanliness.
If fire blight does appear, it’s critical to prune infected areas promptly and disinfect your tools to prevent the disease from spreading.
Lastly, wildlife and seasonal issues like winter damage or sunburn can also impact your apple trees. Protect young trees from animals with guards and manage environmental stress with strategies suited to your climate.
For example, white plastic guards can prevent sunscald during winter, while pruning damaged branches can help the tree recover from events like hail.
Harvesting and storing apples
Harvesting fruit
When it’s time to harvest apples, color isn’t the only clue to their ripeness. True ripeness is marked by a blend of the apple’s size, color, and sweetness. While there’s a common belief that some late-ripening varieties need a frost to become sweeter, apples actually mature and increase in sweetness all on their own.
When to Harvest Apples
Patience is key when harvesting apples to ensure you pick them at their best. Here’s how you can tell they’re ready:
Timing: Different varieties ripen at different times, stretching the apple season from August to October.
Color Check: Harvest apples when their underlying color shifts from green. This part of the apple’s skin, hidden from the sun, should start turning a yellowish-green as it ripens.
Easy Does It: The apple should easily come off the branch with a gentle lift and twist of your hand—no yanking needed.
Taste Test: If you’re unsure, pick a few and taste them. This will confirm whether they’ve reached your preferred level of ripeness.
Starch to Sugar: As apples ripen, their starch converts to sugar. A ripe apple may be slightly tart, but it will be sweet and aromatic, without leaving a sticky residue on your teeth.
Multiple Picks: You might need to harvest apples from the same tree several times within a week or two to catch them all at the ideal stage.
Credit: foodforestnursery
How to Pick an Apple Properly
Technique: Hold the apple in your palm, gently lift, and twist in one fluid motion.
Alternative Method: Use one hand to stabilize the fruiting spur and the other to twist and lift the apple gently.
Be Gentle: Avoid pulling hard to prevent damaging the spur, which could affect next year’s growth.
Storing Apples Effectively
Did you know that your fridge is actually the best spot for keeping apples fresh? They thrive in cool temperatures, ideally between 33°F and 38°F, paired with about 85 percent humidity. While you might consider the garage, basement, or a classic root cellar, none beat the controlled environment of your refrigerator for extending an apple’s shelf life.
Here’s the scoop: apples kept near 33°F can last almost ten times longer than those left out at room temperature. However, fridges tend to be a bit dry, so to keep your apples plump and prevent them from shriveling, pop them in a perforated plastic bag or a container with a loose lid.
Sure, apples look great in a fruit bowl on your counter, but they won’t stay fresh for long in such warm conditions.
When it comes to choosing which apples to store, opt for mid- or late-season varieties. Early-season apples are more of a eat-them-while-you-pick-them kind of fruit. Mid-season ones should last a few weeks, whereas late-season apples can stay crisp for up to five months in a root cellar.
It’s crucial to only store apples that are in perfect condition; even a small bruise can become a gateway for rot.
For optimal storage, wrap each apple individually in newspaper or tissue paper and arrange them on trays to allow air circulation. If you prefer not to wrap them, make sure they don’t touch each other. Remember, different varieties have different lifespans, so keep them separate and use the shorter-lasting ones first.
Choose a storage space that’s cool, dark, and well-ventilated—think garage or shed, rather than an attic or basement where conditions can be too extreme. Keep an eye on your stored apples, discarding any that start to go soft, brown, or show signs of rotting.
Concerned about freezing temperatures? Apples begin to freeze at about 28-28.5°F, but they can usually withstand a brief dip below this threshold without serious damage. However, prolonged exposure to sub-28°F temps increases the risk of spoilage.
If apples do freeze, don’t pick them until they’ve thawed; otherwise, they’ll bruise and spoil. Post-freeze, it’s best to leave the apples on the tree until midday thawing and use them quickly, as their storage potential drops significantly.
Apple varieties to grow
The first time I bit into a Honeycrisp apple, it was a game-changer—they’re simply the best! Big, crunchy, and sweet, they’re a slice of heaven. However, growing Honeycrisp apples at home can be quite the challenge.
These trees are especially prone to a condition known as bitter pit, which leaves the apples with spongy, spotted, and bitter flesh. Even seasoned orchard owners struggle with this issue.
And Honeycrisp isn’t the only tricky apple variety; others also face threats from diseases like fire blight, apple scab, and powdery mildew, which can all compromise the health and productivity of your trees. Typically, commercial growers combat these diseases with heavy, often harmful, chemical sprays.
So, what can an organic or home gardener do? First, check out the local area before planting. You’ll need a pollen source within 100 feet to ensure successful pollination. If there aren’t any nearby crabapple or apple trees, consider planting two different varieties.
When you buy an apple tree, you’re getting a graft of two different plants: the scion, which is the fruit-bearing part above ground, and the rootstock, which dictates the tree’s size and how quickly it will start fruiting.
To manage diseases better and cut down on chemical use, opt for resistant varieties like ‘Liberty’, ‘Jonafree’, ‘Macfree’, and ‘Williams Pride’. These not only ease maintenance but also thrive in northern climates.
Choosing the right rootstock is crucial. It can range from ‘standard’, which yields a full-sized tree, to ‘dwarfing’, which makes for easier care and harvest. For colder zones, the Bud 9 is a solid choice, while the M9 is popular but may struggle in extreme cold.
Purchase dormant, bare-root, 1-year-old nursery trees with healthy root systems. Depending on the size, trees can bear fruit in as little as 3 years, producing 1 to 2 bushels annually, while standard trees take longer but yield more.
Select apple varieties based on the fruit characteristics, bloom times, and pollen compatibility. Include good pollinators like ‘Grimes Golden’, ‘Golden Delicious’, ‘Red Delicious’, or ‘Winter Banana’ for best fruiting results. Some varieties can self-pollinate, but you’ll get a bigger harvest with cross-pollination.
Also, think about how you want to use your apples. Whether for baking delicious pies or just enjoying a fresher taste than store-bought, choose varieties that suit your culinary needs. If you’re a fan of ‘Cox’s Orange Pippin’ pies, you might need several trees to meet your baking needs.
For those without a specific plan, planting a mix of varieties that ripen throughout the season can keep your apple supply varied and abundant. Lastly, seek local experts’ advice and plan your orchard from the comfort of your home with a stack of nursery catalogs to guide you.
Frequently asked questions
Can I take hardwood cuttings from an apple tree?
Apple trees are typically propagated through grafting, not cuttings. This is because apple seeds don’t reliably produce the same fruit, and cuttings alone struggle to root effectively.
The most common method involves grafting a cutting onto a rootstock, which helps manage the tree’s growth. Popular grafting techniques include whip-and-tongue grafting during late winter or early spring, and chip budding from mid-summer to early autumn.
Is it possible to relocate a young apple tree in spring?
Yes, you can move a young apple tree late in winter or early in spring, while it’s still dormant and before the buds start to open. Young trees tend to handle the stress of moving better than older, more established ones.
Can apple tree cuttings root in water?
While you might be tempted to root apple tree cuttings in water, they actually perform better in a moist soil-like medium. However, grafting is generally the preferred method for propagating apple trees, as direct rooting is more commonly successful with fruit bushes like currants.
What should I do if a large apple tree falls?
If a large apple tree falls but still has roots in the ground, you might be able to save it. Make sure to cover any exposed roots with soil and prune any damaged branches to keep the area safe. With some care and a bit of luck, the tree might just thrive in its new situation.
Did You Know?
Johnny Appleseed Day is celebrated on September 26th, honoring John Chapman, the legendary pioneer who introduced apple trees across the American Frontier.
Apples paired with aged cheeses can help reduce tooth plaque.
There’s an old proverb that says, “A bad woman can’t make good applesauce.”
