Why Bradford Pear Trees Are Bad for Your Garden: The Invasive Truth

If a dazzling white tree is gracing your front yard come springtime, it’s likely a Bradford pear tree (Pyrus calleryana). Their brilliant white blossoms are a sure sign that spring has sprung, but beware—they come with a less-than-pleasant aroma.

However, the stench isn’t the only downside. These trees are also known for their brittle branches and invasive nature, making them a poor choice for any garden.

Despite their beauty, Bradford pear trees are often disliked. Their strong, off-putting odor and aggressive spreading habits have led many communities to encourage residents to remove them by offering special incentives.

I once decided to overlook the negative buzz surrounding this notorious variety of Callery pear and planted one myself, convinced that every plant deserved a fair shot. And let’s be honest, those white blooms are stunning.

But it’s worth considering other options—there are plenty of attractive and sweet-smelling alternatives out there. Here’s a look at why you might want to think twice about Bradford pear trees and explore other possibilities.

Understanding the Bradford Pear: Beauty and Challenges

Introduced in the mid-1960s, the Bradford pear quickly became the go-to choice for both landscapers and city planners due to its rapid growth, tolerance for various soil types, and stunning appearances with white spring blossoms and vibrant fall colors.

Originally celebrated for its pest resistance and disease-free status, the tree’s popularity led to the terms “Bradford pear” and “Callery pear” becoming synonymous.

However, the allure began to wane as issues emerged. Contrary to expectations of remaining compact, Bradford pears can shoot up to 40-50 feet. When planted en masse, their intensely sweet flowers release an overpowering odor.

Structural weaknesses present another major drawback; the tree’s branches, growing densely from a single point, are prone to breaking, particularly during harsh weather, leading to the tree’s potential collapse within 20 years.

The most troubling problem arose from the tree’s ability to crossbreed with other pear varieties, producing thorny, invasive offspring that threaten local ecosystems by forming dense thickets and outcompeting native flora.

The Callery pear’s description might evoke an image of a charming, lollipop-shaped tree with its neat appearance and early blooming. Yet, despite its tidy looks, it is an invasive species rapidly spreading across various landscapes.

The Callery pear (Bradford) stands up to 30 feet tall, featuring smooth, wavy-edged leaves and clusters of white flowers with an unpleasant scent, followed by small, brown fruits that are largely spread by starlings. This proliferation poses a significant ecological threat as it can dominate forest understories and displace native trees.

Credit: Extension Forestry – NC State

For those considering alternatives, consider native trees like serviceberry, redbud, American hornbeam, hop hornbeam, and pagoda dogwood, which offer environmental benefits without the drawbacks of the Callery pear.

Despite its beauty, the ecological and economic costs of this invasive species are too great to overlook, particularly as it continues to spread unchecked in less maintained areas.

How the Bradford Pear Tree Became a Landscape Favorite

Bradford pear trees once dominated landscapes across the eastern states, and here’s how they rose to fame. In the early 20th century, the West Coast was battling a pervasive disease known as fire blight, which was decimating fruit trees.

In 1908, plant scientist Frank Reiber discovered that Callery pear trees, grown from seeds imported from China and tested in Oregon, were immune to the blight. These trees not only survived but thrived, producing abundant fruit.

By 1918, Frank Meyer, a plant explorer from the Missouri Botanical Garden, ventured to China and collected over 5,000 pounds of Callery pear seeds. These were then shipped back to the U.S., providing vital rootstock that spurred new growth above ground.

Fast forward to the 1960s, the ornamental nursery industry saw potential in these trees for beautifying landscapes. After selective breeding to remove thorns and reduce pest issues, the most successful variety to emerge was the Bradford pear.

Named in 1963 after Frederick Charles Bradford, the director of the U.S. Department of Agriculture Plant Introduction Station in Maryland, this tree variety became a staple due to its rapid growth, low cost, and resilience in tough conditions like drought and high temperatures.

However, by the 1980s, the downsides became apparent. Trees planted in the 1960s were collapsing due to their brittle wood and dense branches, often splitting in windstorms. More recently, horticulturists have been taken aback to find that Bradford pears can cross-pollinate with other Callery pear varieties, such as Cleveland Select.

Unfortunately, this crossbreeding often results in offspring that revert to the less desirable traits of their ancestors, including thorny branches.

Why the Popular Bradford Pear Tree Is Falling Out of Favor

There’s no denying that Bradford pear trees make a stunning display with their early spring blooms of white flowers. Unfortunately, their beauty is short-lived and outweighed by numerous downsides. Here’s why more people are deciding to say goodbye to these trees.

• Fragile Structure

Despite reaching up to 30 feet, Bradford pears can’t withstand much. A moderate 40 mph wind can easily break the tree into pieces, leaving a mess of debris behind. This is due to their weak branch structure where all major limbs split from one single point, making them prone to snapping. It’s not a question of if, but when disaster will strike—hopefully not on your property.

• Short Lifespan

Bradford pears typically only last between 10 to 20 years due to their inherent structural weakness. They’re likely to split during storms or simply due to old age, making recovery difficult.

As these trees age, they become magnets for pests like aphids, borers, and scales, and diseases such as fire blight, which not only damages them but can also spread to nearby fruit crops.

• Dense and Damaging Shade

The tree’s thick branches create a dense shade that stifles any lawn grass beneath it. This shading is particularly problematic on sloped areas where it can kill the grass and lead to severe soil erosion and unsightly gullies.

• Invasive Species

Originally introduced as a non-thorny, ornamental tree that was supposed to be sterile, Bradford pears have turned out to be anything but. Their inability to self-pollinate was a trait that backfired when other variants of the Callery pear began to cross-pollinate with them, leading to viable seeds.

Now recognized as an invasive species in parts of the Southeast, these trees overpower native vegetation that’s crucial for local wildlife, disrupting natural ecosystems. Several states have taken measures by banning their sale and planting, and even offering incentives for their removal.

• Unpleasant Odors and Messy Fruit

Despite their name, Bradford pears are infamous for their unpleasant smell during bloom, which is far from fruity and attracts pollinating flies that feed on common pests.

Additionally, they produce a fruit that, while not edible for humans, creates a mess when it falls and decomposes in yards. Worse yet, if they cross-pollinate, these fruits can spread seeds far and wide, contributing to their invasive spread.

Credit: elizapples

As enchanting as they might appear in spring, the reality of maintaining and managing Bradford pear trees, coupled with their detrimental impact on surroundings, is leading many to reconsider their presence in landscapes.

The Invasive Truth About Bradford Pear Trees

Bradford pear trees, once beloved for their spring blossoms adorning our urban landscapes, have fallen from grace in the horticultural and ecological communities. These trees, now considered invasive, are causing significant problems across the eastern and southeastern United States.

Why the sudden shift in perception? Well, these trees are bullies in the plant world. They outcompete native species for essential resources like sunlight, water, and nutrients. Unlike native plants, they don’t support local insect populations, which are crucial for birds and other wildlife.

To make matters worse, their fragile branches are prone to breaking, posing risks to property and people. Oh, and let’s not forget their less-than-pleasant aroma!

Credit: WUNC

Michelle Campanis, from the University of Tennessee Arboretum, recently shared these insights during a lecture at the Oak Ridge Institute for Continued Learning. She explained that the Bradford pear, derived from the Callery pear native to Asia, is now spreading unchecked through our forests, fields, and farms.

The real trouble starts when Bradford pears cross-pollinate with other Callery pear varieties. Their offspring often inherit some nasty traits from their wild ancestors, including vicious three-inch thorns that can even puncture tractor tires! These new trees are popping up everywhere, thanks in part to birds snacking on their fruit and spreading the seeds.

These thorny descendants create dense, impenetrable thickets that make hiking a nightmare – even goats steer clear! It’s a far cry from the tame landscaping trees we thought we were planting.

The Bradford pear’s reputation took a nosedive in the 2000s, with 29 states and Washington, D.C. labeling it invasive. Looking ahead to 2024, Ohio, Pennsylvania, and South Carolina are set to ban sales of these troublesome trees.

Some areas are taking even more drastic measures – in North Carolina, for instance, homeowners can earn rewards for removing Bradford pears and replacing them with native species.

It’s a cautionary tale about the unintended consequences of introducing non-native species into our ecosystems. What seemed like a beautiful addition to our landscapes has turned into an ecological headache that we’re now scrambling to address.

Eradicating Bradford Pear Trees: Guidance from an Expert

Campanis urged residents of Oak Ridge to combat the spread of Bradford pear trees by opting not to plant them and by removing existing ones. She recommended cutting down each tree and applying herbicide to the stump to stop it from growing back.

While she usually advises against herbicide use because it can harm local plants, insects, and aquatic life, she believes it’s necessary in this instance.

During a class at ORICL, she encouraged participants to reach out to their local and state officials to advocate for a ban on selling Bradford pear trees, similar to measures other states are considering or have already implemented.

Campanis pointed out that with Tennessee’s large nursery industry, it’s crucial for nursery owners to focus on growing native plants and steer clear of invasive species.

She highlighted the broader issue of invasive plants in Tennessee and other states, including kudzu, autumn olive, privet shrubs, and various types of honeysuckle and Japanese stiltgrass.

Particularly, Japanese stiltgrass was introduced by accident in 1919 via porcelain shipments from China, where it was used as packing material. This grass has now invaded much of the Southeast and is present in 26 states.

Campanis also celebrated native species like the redbud and dogwood trees, which are beautiful in spring and provide stunning fall colors.

She recommended planting these and other native species such as the serviceberry tree, which bears edible purple fruit, and Carolina silverbells, with their delicate white blooms in April. She also praised the fringe tree, known for its fragrant white blooms in May and June and fruit that birds love.

Dealing with Bradford Pear Trees: A Personal Journey

In my quest to find a less problematic tree, I opted for a ‘Cleveland Select’ Bradford pear. This variety, known for its upright, columnar shape, seemed like a perfect choice. It stood out with its stunning fall colors—rich burgundy and vibrant yellow—long after other trees had shed their leaves.

I strategically planted it behind my garage, which conveniently shielded me from the notorious smell of its flowers.

However, after a decade without issues, my supposedly fruitless pear tree surprised me by producing fruit. It turns out that even “sterile” trees can bear fruit if cross-pollinated by neighboring trees. This revelation meant that despite its sterile label, my tree could still contribute to genetic mixing with native pear trees, potentially creating invasive plants.

The reality is, even sterile Bradford pears can be deceptive. If you have one, you might want to consider removing it. Not only is it excellent as firewood, but you also get the chance to replace it with a more agreeable and less invasive species.

Credit: WOSU Public Media

Some great alternatives include the flowering dogwood, serviceberry, flowering cherry, and fringe tree. These choices won’t just prevent the spread of unwanted seedlings; they’ll also spare your neighbors from the pungent bloom of the Bradford pear and support healthier local ecosystems.

My friend Eliza Greenman argues they’re not in her piece, “In Defense of Bradford Pear.” She points out that every Callery pear (the family Bradford pears belong to) is top-notch when it comes to rootstock. If you’re battling deer in your garden, you can graft any pear—or even Winter Banana apples—onto Callery pears.

Sure, you might deal with some regrowth, which deer or livestock can nibble on, but it’s easy to manage. Plus, you’ll see fruit in just 2-3 years.

One of the reasons Callery pears weren’t popular as rootstock was due to issues with root propagation and hardiness, plus they don’t produce dessert-quality fruit. However, large-fruited Callery pear hybrids today show great potential for fermentation, like in ciders and perry.

They boast high sugar content and varied acidity, tannins, and aromatics, making them ideal for sustainable fruit and alcohol production in the South. We need more people to explore these possibilities since they require unique cultivation methods.

Eliza’s insights really got me thinking, and I’ve grown to respect this tree. Here’s how I’m currently using them:

1. Rootstock: I plan to graft several of our Bradford pears with tasty pear varieties this spring. They’re excellent rootstocks, particularly the ones thriving near our pond. Grafting onto an established rootstock speeds up fruit production dramatically compared to starting with a new tree.
2. Firewood and Smoker Wood: Bradford pear wood is great for smoking food. We’re drying some under our carport that I plan to use in our smoker next year. It’s also decent firewood, especially useful since we’ll be pruning a lot when we graft.
3. Beautiful Lumber: My friend Randall recently gave my son Ezekiel some wood for his woodworking projects, including a stunning piece of Bradford pear wood. It had gorgeous, rippling flame patterns and rich colors. After seeing how cool it looked, I even saved some wood from another Bradford pear tree that had been damaged in a storm.

Some of my neighbors have adopted a drastic approach to managing their Bradford pears, similar to how they treat crepe myrtles—by drastically pruning them back to stumps each spring. This practice, however, is not advisable as it severely hampers the tree’s natural growth and aesthetic value.

Unlike crepe myrtles, which can still bloom after such treatment, Bradford pears do not respond well. The best course of action? Remove it before it becomes a liability in your landscape or an invader in local wild areas.

For those looking to enhance their gardens with white blossoms each spring, there are plenty of other options. Consider planting native species like the flowering dogwood, white fringe tree, or Carolina silverbell. These trees not only add beauty with their flowers and foliage but also contribute positively to the local flora.

Botanical Legacy From The Man Behind The Bradford Pear Tree

Frank Meyer, the man behind the introduction of the Bradford pear tree, made significant contributions to botany, as highlighted by Campanis in a recent ORICL class.

Hired by the USDA’s Office of Foreign Seed and Plant Introduction in 1905, Meyer introduced over 2,500 plant species during his lifetime. These include the Meyer lemon, various stone fruits like peaches and plums, the first oil-producing soybean, and the stunning amber lilacs.

Campanis also shed light on Meyer’s role in identifying the source of the chestnut blight that decimated the American chestnut trees in the 1920s. Originating from the Chinese chestnut, which was imported for its higher nut yield, this blight dramatically impacted the eastern U.S. forests.

These forests once thrived with nearly 4 billion American chestnut trees, providing essential nutrients and habitat for indigenous populations and wildlife.

Efforts are now being made to revive this once-dominant tree. The American Chestnut Foundation is at the forefront, working to develop a species resistant to the blight.

Reflecting on the downside of plant importation, Campanis remarked that what seemed beneficial initially sometimes led to invasive species problems. She emphasized the importance of considering the long-term consequences before introducing foreign plants, suggesting a moment of pause for botanists to reflect on potential future impacts.

Frequently Asked Questions

• Where is it illegal to plant Bradford pear trees?

Bradford pear trees are not welcome in several places due to their invasive nature. States like South Carolina, Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Virginia have banned them. Additionally, many cities recommend that residents remove these trees to prevent them from crowding out native plants.

• How do I recognize a sick Bradford pear tree?

Look out for the symptoms of fire blight, a common disease among fruit trees. This includes leaves turning a crispy black or brown and falling off. Another clear indicator is when the twigs blacken and curl, resembling scorch marks.

• What’s the best way to remove a Bradford pear tree from my yard?

Contacting a local tree service is a reliable choice for tree removal, and they typically charge a fee for their services. After felling the tree, it’s crucial to eliminate the stump to prevent regrowth. This can be done by digging, grinding, or applying herbicide, ideally early in the season before the tree produces berries.

• What do Bradford pear tree flowers smell like?

The flowers of the Bradford pear tree have a notoriously unpleasant odor, often likened to rotten fish or even sewage. This strong smell persists until the flowers drop off the tree.

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source https://harvestsavvy.com/bradford-pear-tree/

The Surprising Benefits of House Centipedes: Nature’s Pest Control in Your Home

Let’s dive into the fascinating world of centipedes, those multi-legged creatures that often get a bad rap. Did you know they’re actually beneficial to our ecosystem? These little guys are nature’s pest control, helping keep populations of roaches, silverfish, flies, and even termites in check.

Sure, centipedes have venom, but don’t let that scare you off. They’re not out to get us humans and rarely bite. Even if they did, their venom isn’t usually harmful unless you happen to be allergic.

Now, let’s talk about the house centipede (Scutigera coleoptrata). This is the only type that likes to set up shop indoors. While they’re harmless, I’ll admit their appearance can be a bit startling. All those legs and segments might make you jump if you’re not expecting to see them!

But here’s the thing – if you’re spotting these critters regularly, it might be time to play detective. Their presence could be a sign that your home has some excess moisture or even an insect problem that needs addressing.

Ready to learn more about your multi-legged housemates? Let’s explore everything you need to know about house centipedes.

Introducing House Centipede

Meet the house centipede, or Scutigera coleoptrata, a frequent guest in many U.S. homes. Often nicknamed “hundred-leggers” for their numerous legs, these critters typically stretch between one to two inches long, excluding their legs.

Sporting 15 body segments, each segment is paired with long, slender legs, which is fewer than some of their kin but in line with the odd-numbered leg pair rule among centipedes.

Though their swift movement and lengthy appendages might startle some, house centipedes are benign. They play a beneficial role indoors by hunting smaller arthropods, like pest insects. If you’re spotting a lot of them, it might be a sign of another pest problem in your home.

Credit: wikipedia

Let’s break down their classification a bit:

• Common Name: House Centipede
• Species: Scutigera coleoptrata
• Family: Scutigeridae
• Order: Scutigeromorpha
• Class: Chilopoda

House centipedes bear a somewhat menacing look with their dark brown or yellow bodies, adorned with darker markings and three distinct, dark lines running from head to tail. They sport a pair of bushy antennae and can have varied eye arrangements—from complex, multi-lensed eyes to simple ones or none at all.

Interestingly, they have specialized front legs, called forcipules, situated just below their mouths. These are adapted to deliver a venomous punch to subdue prey or deter predators, effectively acting as both spear and shield. The trailing pair of legs is exceptionally long, mimicking their antennae, which confuses prey about which end is which.

Adult females flaunt the most dramatic legwear; their last pair of legs can be nearly twice as long as their body, giving them an exaggerated length of up to four inches when you account for legs and antennae. The striking banded pattern on their legs and a primarily yellow body with longitudinal stripes round off their distinctive appearance.

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Lifecycle of House Centipedes

These unique creatures have a three-stage life cycle: egg, larva, and adult. They’re outdoor winter dwellers, but come summer, female centipedes get busy. They’ll burrow into the soil and lay up to 35 eggs over a few days.

Growing up isn’t simple for these little guys. They go through six larval stages, each ending with a molt. Then, they’ve got four more post-larval stages before they’re fully grown. Talk about a long childhood! But it’s worth the wait – female centipedes can live for years and have up to 150 offspring.

During the day, these shy creatures hide in dark, damp spots around your home. But at night, they’re on the prowl for food. When they first hatch, baby centipedes only have four pairs of legs. But with each molt, they gain more. It’s like a leg lottery – 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, and finally 15 pairs when they’re adults.

Credit: The Money Pit

House centipedes are the marathon runners of the insect world. While many bugs live for just one season, these guys can stick around for up to seven years, though most make it to about three. That’s a lot of time for munching on other creepy crawlies like silverfish, carpet beetle larvae, and cockroaches.

Here’s a fun fact: if you’re seeing a lot of centipedes, it might mean you’ve got a buffet of other bugs in your house. So while they might give you the heebie-jeebies, these leggy lodgers could actually be telling you about a bigger pest problem!

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House Centipede Hideaways

Ever wondered where those speedy, many-legged creatures like to hang out? House centipedes have a knack for finding cozy, damp spots in and around your home. Let’s explore their favorite hideaways!

Inside your house, these critters love cool, moist areas. You’ll often spot them in basements, tucked away in closets, or scurrying across bathroom floors. They’re also fans of potted plants and unexcavated spaces beneath your home. If you’ve got firewood stored inside, check under the bark – it’s prime centipede real estate!

But how do they sneak in? These crafty insects have a few tricks up their sleeves (or should we say, legs?). They can squeeze through tiny cracks in concrete slabs, wriggle into gaps in cement block walls, or even pop up through floor drains that lack water traps. And if you’ve got cardboard boxes sitting on a concrete floor, you might have some unexpected roommates!

Outdoors, house centipedes feel right at home under logs, rocks, and fallen tree bark. They’re night owls, preferring to hide during the day and come out after dark to hunt.

While you might freak out when you spot one on your bedroom wall or trapped in the bathtub, remember – these aren’t their usual hangouts. They much prefer those damp, dark corners of your home.

One thing you don’t need to worry about? Centipedes crawling up through your pipes. Despite popular belief, they’re not fans of drain surfing.

Credit: Pest Control Canada

Are House Centipedes Dangerous?

House centipedes might give some people the creeps with their appearance, but they’re actually harmless to humans and pets. In fact, they’re beneficial as they hunt down household pests like cockroaches, silverfish, and even bed bugs. These speedy critters use their numerous long legs to snatch up prey swiftly, ensuring pests have no chance of escape.

It’s quite rare for a house centipede to bite humans or animals. Their jaws aren’t very strong, so on the off chance you do get bitten, it’s likely to only cause minor swelling. They do have venomous fangs, which they use to kill their prey, but the venom isn’t harmful to humans.

You might experience a slight reaction similar to a bee sting if bitten, but such instances are extremely uncommon and usually happen only if the centipede is provoked.

Visually, house centipedes sport a yellowish to dark brown hue and can grow up to an inch and a half with 15 pairs of legs. This enables them to move quickly, up to a foot per second. While they may look daunting, they don’t pose a threat to your clothes or furniture like moths, nor do they damage your pantry goods like ants.

Unlike their plant-eating millipede relatives, house centipedes are carnivores that focus on other insects. Although they use their jaws to deliver venom to their prey, it’s highly unlikely for them to bite a human unless mishandled. If a bite does happen, it typically feels like a mild bee sting.

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Are House Centipedes Actually Helpful?

Believe it or not, house centipedes are actually the good guys in your home! From an expert’s perspective, these creepy crawlies do more good than harm by feasting on other unwanted pests.

Think of them as your personal, eco-friendly pest control service. They have a knack for hunting down insects like spiders, ants, cockroaches, and silverfish—all of which you’d probably rather not have around.

These leggy arthropods are night owls, doing most of their pest patrol during the darker hours. This means they’re out of sight while you’re asleep, quietly handling nuisances by sneaking into the nooks and crannies where pests love to hide.

What’s more, the average female house centipede lays dozens of eggs, multiplying their helpful impact without you even noticing. While the thought of many centipedes might make you shudder, rest easy knowing they’re likely hidden and working hard to keep your space bug-free.

Credit: Insect Wiki – Fandom

So, the next time you spot one, you might just want to let it scurry on its pest-controlling way!

Read The Guide to Controlling Earwig Populations.

Why Are There House Centipedes in My Home?

Ever wonder why you’re spotting house centipedes scurrying around your place? These critters are mostly active at night, making it hard to catch them in the act. If you start seeing them regularly, it could mean they’re not alone—other pests might be lurking about, serving as a buffet for these many-legged invaders.

Your home could be more inviting to house centipedes if you’ve got other pests like cockroaches, termites, or spiders. These bugs are like a call to dinner for centipedes, especially in quiet, dark, and damp spots like your basement.

Credit: TheFW

These sneaky guests find their way in through the smallest cracks and crevices in search of moisture. They’d rather be outside under logs or in leafy debris where it’s moist, but if they do slip inside, they head straight for similarly damp places like musty closets or shadowy corners.

The warmth and security of your heated home can also draw them in, particularly during the bitter cold of winter or dry spells when outdoor conditions are tough. They feast on various pests—think cockroaches, silverfish, and moths.

While it might seem beneficial that they’re handling other pests, their presence is a red flag that you might have a larger pest problem to tackle.

Here’s what attracts house centipedes to your home:

1. Moisture: These pests thrive in damp environments. Keep an eye on moisture around your home—fix leaky spigots, ensure gutters are unblocked and functioning properly, and manage soil dampness by adjusting your landscaping to keep the area dry.
2. Food: Centipedes are on the hunt for food, which often leads them close to your home. They dine on insects that lurk around your yard, drawn by moisture and plants. Keeping your yard clean of debris and excess vegetation can cut down on their food sources.
3. Shelter: Clutter and debris around your house can offer centipedes and other pests shelter. Clear out any piles of wood, leaves, or unused items that could become pest havens.

To deter these unwanted guests, start with a thorough inspection of your home’s exterior. Seal any cracks and gaps, check the integrity of screens on windows and doors, and remember—just a tiny opening is all a centipede needs to make your home theirs.

Keeping your yard tidy and your home dry and sealed are your best defenses against these creepy crawlers.

Learn How to Attract Praying Mantises for Natural Pest Control in Your Garden.

How to Handle a House Centipede

If you spot a house centipede scurrying across your floor, don’t panic! These critters might give you the heebie-jeebies, but they’re actually nature’s pest control agents. A house centipede’s presence often points to a bigger bug problem in your home. They thrive where they can feast—meaning if you’ve got them, you likely have other unwelcome insects too.

To manage a centipede population, first focus on cutting off their food supply. Use sticky traps to find out what other pests are lurking around, then eliminate these insects with your preferred pesticide, whether it’s a natural solution or a chemical one.

Centipedes are also suckers for moisture, so check for any leaks and consider a dehumidifier to dry out damp areas like basements, which could be their perfect hideout.

Encountering these many-legged creatures can be startling, but remember, they’re more scared of you than you are of them and they’re not harmful to humans.

Instead of crushing them (which can release an unpleasant smell), gently trap and release them outside where they can continue keeping other pests in check. Just cover them with a cup, slide some paper underneath, and set them free.

Managing centipedes effectively involves more than just eviction. Seal up cracks in walls and around the foundation, put screens over drains and sump pumps, and reduce humidity in your home by using dehumidifiers and improving soil grading around your house to keep moisture away from the foundation.

Ultimately, house centipedes don’t need to be feared or exterminated. They help control more annoying pests. If the sight of them is too much, focusing on reducing other pests and drying out your home will naturally reduce their numbers without resorting to pesticides, which are often ineffective against them due to their high-stepping gait.

Keep your spaces dry and clean, especially basements and dark corners, to make them less inviting to centipedes.

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Keeping House Centipedes at Bay: Practical Tips for a Pest-Free Home

Want to keep those creepy-crawly house centipedes out of your space? It’s easier than you might think! First things first, seal off their entry points. Take a good look around your home’s exterior—check the walls, foundation, and any gaps around windows and doors. Using caulk to fill these gaps can significantly reduce their chances of sneaking in.

Moisture is a big draw for these pests, so it’s crucial to keep your home dry. A dehumidifier works wonders in pulling excess moisture from the air.

Don’t forget to run those exhaust fans in your bathrooms and attics, especially after a steamy shower or during humid weather, to keep the dampness down. Tackling any leaks or plumbing issues also helps in making your home less inviting to centipedes.

Lastly, centipedes thrive in cluttered, dark environments. By keeping your living spaces neat and tidy, you reduce their hiding spots. Make it a routine to vacuum and clean regularly, focusing on drains and pipes to ensure they’re clear of organic debris.

Addressing any bug infestations swiftly will also cut down on their food sources, making your home less appealing to these unwelcome guests.

By combining these measures, you can create a less hospitable environment for house centipedes and enjoy a pest-free home.

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source https://harvestsavvy.com/house-centipedes/

Top Egg-Laying Chicken Breeds for Your Backyard Flock

Thinking about getting backyard chickens for eggs? You’re not alone! When my partner and I first considered this venture, we were curious about which breeds would be the best egg-layers. After all, our main goal was to enjoy a steady supply of fresh eggs.

Our research revealed that chicken breeds vary widely in their egg-laying abilities. With so many options out there, it’s important to know that different breeds produce eggs of various sizes and in different quantities.

If you’re committed to raising backyard chickens, you’ll want to set yourself up for success from the start. The key? Choosing the right chickens for your needs. For those aiming to maximize egg production, picking top-notch layers is crucial.

In this post, we’ll explore the best egg-laying chicken breeds and address other important questions you might have as you embark on your backyard chicken farming journey. I’ll share insights from other chicken keepers and our family’s personal experiences with various breeds.

We’ll cover not just which chickens are the most prolific layers, but also which ones produce the largest eggs. Plus, we’ll highlight breeds that are particularly well-suited for beginners. Whether you’re looking for quantity, size, or ease of care, we’ve got you covered!

Which Chickens Are Best for Laying Eggs?

Choosing the best chicken breeds for egg-laying isn’t a one-size-fits-all decision. Several factors come into play, including egg production rates, egg size and color, the chicken’s temperament, and ease of care. Let’s explore some top choices to help you create your ideal backyard flock.

• Rhode Island Red Rhode

Island Reds are a popular choice, especially for beginners, thanks to their hardiness and low maintenance. These friendly birds can produce around 250 large, light brown eggs per year—about 5 to 6 eggs weekly.

As dual-purpose chickens, they’re great for both eggs and meat. Rhode Island Reds adapt well to various climates and are active foragers, making them an excellent fit for families. While some keepers report occasional aggression towards other chickens, many find them well-behaved overall.

Credit: Valley Hatchery

• Leghorn

Leghorns, particularly the White Leghorn variety, are known for their impressive egg production, laying up to 300 large white eggs annually. Commercial egg producers often favor these efficient layers. If you want chickens that start laying early and maintain high production, Leghorns are a solid choice.

However, they can be noisy and somewhat flighty, which might challenge beginners. Their smaller size makes them ideal for limited spaces. Heritage varieties like Silver or Brown Leghorns tend to be calmer but may lay fewer eggs.

Credit: The Chick Hatchery

• Amber Star

Amber Stars are reliable, high-production hybrid chickens that suit families and novice keepers well. These calm, easygoing birds make great backyard additions. Though smaller in size, they’re dependable layers that can comfortably fit into most coop setups.

Credit: Freeway Poultry

• Red Star (ISA Brown)

Red Stars, also known as ISA Browns, are hybrid chickens famous for their egg-laying prowess. These friendly, docile birds can produce up to 320 large brown eggs yearly. They’re relatively low-maintenance and adapt well to different climates. However, some keepers notice a decline in production after the first couple of years.

Credit: Murray McMurray Hatchery

• Australorp

Australorps are excellent layers, averaging 250 light brown eggs per year. This dual-purpose breed, originally from Australia, is related to the Black Orpington and is suitable for both meat and eggs. Calm and gentle, Australorps thrive in free-range environments and can handle both hot and cold climates.

Credit: The Livestock Conservancy

• Plymouth Rock

Plymouth Rocks are hardy, friendly birds that lay about 250 medium-to-large brown eggs annually. One of their standout features is longevity—they can continue laying eggs for up to 10 years, much longer than most breeds. Besides being excellent layers, Plymouth Rocks are good for meat production and handle cold weather well, making them ideal for cooler climates.

Credit: ROYS FARM

• Orpington

Orpingtons are large, docile chickens known for their calm temperament. While not the most prolific layers, averaging about 200 eggs per year, their friendly nature makes them a favorite among backyard chicken keepers.

Orpingtons come in different varieties, with Buff Orpingtons being particularly popular. They also serve well as dual-purpose chickens for both eggs and meat.

Credit: wikipedia

• Easter Eggers

If you follow homesteading accounts on social media, you’ve likely seen photos of beautiful blue and green eggs. While several chicken breeds produce colorful eggs, the Easter Egger is one of the most popular. These chickens, sometimes called Olive Eggers, are not a heritage breed but rather a mixed breed.

They often result from crossing Araucanas or Ameraucanas with other varieties. Their eggs come in a range of shades, from olive green to blue, and occasionally even pink! This spring, I’m thrilled to be adding some Easter Egger chicks to our flock. On average, they lay about 250 medium-sized eggs per year and are known for their friendly nature.

Credit: California Hatchery

• Chantecler

The Chantecler, developed in Canada, is a hardy breed designed for cold climates. These chickens excel in freezing winters but don’t do as well in hot weather. If you live in a chilly region, Chanteclers could be an ideal addition to your flock.

This heritage breed is not only a reliable egg layer, producing around 250 eggs annually, but is also valued for its meat. While their egg production may not match some other breeds, Chantecler eggs are large and tasty.

Credit: ROYS FARM

• Sussex

The Sussex chicken is both friendly and productive, making it a favorite among backyard chicken keepers. With their calm temperament, they’re easy to manage and known for laying between 200 and 350 eggs a year. This historic British breed, which nearly went extinct in the early 1900s, comes in various colors including buff, speckled, and white.

If egg production is your priority, the light and white Sussex varieties tend to be the best layers. Some Sussex hens can go broody, meaning they’ll want to hatch eggs rather than lay more, which can be a bonus if you’re interested in raising chicks.

Credit: Wikipedia

• Calico Princess

A recent addition to my flock, the Calico Princess has quickly become one of my top egg producers. They lay about 290 light brown eggs each year and are excellent foragers, easily adapting to various climates. So far, my five Calico Princess hens have been the most consistent daily layers in my flock.

Credit: CountryMax

• Speckled Sussex

Although I don’t have Speckled Sussex in my flock, my mom has kept them for years. This heritage breed is great for both eggs and meat, with hens laying up to 220 brown eggs annually. They’re calm and reliable setters, making them ideal for those interested in hatching chicks.

Credit: SeaBreeze Hens

• Prairie Bluebell

I used to rely on Ameraucanas or Easter Eggers for blue eggs until I discovered Prairie Bluebells. These chickens, a cross between Ameraucanas and Leghorns, lay around 240 bright blue eggs a year. They’re active, great foragers, and thrive in various climates.

Credit: Flockjourney

• Sapphire Gem

Sapphire Gems are a lovely addition to any flock. These gentle hens consistently produce an impressive 290 brown eggs each year. They’re also wonderful foragers and have a friendly, easygoing nature—always eager for kitchen scraps.

Credit: The Happy Chicken Coop

• Honorable Mention: Andalusians

I can’t talk about chickens without mentioning Andalusians. This striking heritage breed from Spain features stunning blue and gray feathers. Although they weren’t part of our first flock, we added six Andalusians later on, and they’ve become some of my favorites.

They’re a bit feisty, but they’ve proven to be solid egg layers, even through the coldest winters, producing creamy-white medium-sized eggs.

Credit: thefrugalchicken

Top Hybrid Chicken Breeds for Egg Laying

Hybrid breeds have taken the poultry scene by storm, offering backyard farmers a feathered solution to their egg-production dreams. These specially bred hens are egg-laying powerhouses, often outshining their purebred cousins in more ways than one.

Why choose hybrid chickens? For starters, they’re a breeze to find and buy. Whether you’re browsing online hatcheries or your local farm store, these breeds are usually in stock. But their real claim to fame is their incredible egg output.

These girls are like little egg factories, churning out dozens of eggs in their prime years. Just keep in mind that their peak laying period typically lasts 1-2 years.

Hybrid hens come with some nifty perks. They’re efficient eaters, converting feed into eggs like pros. This means more eggs for your buck! Plus, they’re usually compact birds, perfect for smaller coops or urban setups.

Now, let’s meet some star performers:

1. Isa Browns: These chestnut beauties lay a whopping 300+ large brown eggs yearly. They’re a mix of several breeds, including Rhode Island Reds and white Leghorns.
2. Golden Comets: Expect 250-300 large brown eggs annually from these gals. They’re a mix of New Hampshire Red roosters and White Rock hens, and they start laying earlier than many other breeds.
3. Austra Whites: If you’re after white eggs, these ladies deliver 250+ large ones each year. They blend the best of Leghorns and Australorps, offering great egg production with a calmer temperament.
4. Lohmann Browns: These German-origin hybrids are egg-laying machines, producing over 320 large brown eggs yearly. They’re quick to mature and start laying around 21 weeks old.
5. Black Stars: Another brown egg champion, laying about 300 large eggs annually. These sex-linked hybrids are a cross between Rhode Island Red or New Hampshire Red roosters and barred Plymouth Rock hens.

Top Heritage Chicken Breeds for Egg Production

Looking for the best heritage chicken breeds for egg production? You’re in luck! While hybrid chickens are often touted for their egg-laying prowess, many heritage breeds can hold their own when it comes to filling your egg basket. Plus, these old-school birds come with some serious perks that their modern counterparts can’t match.

Why go heritage? For starters, these chickens are built to last. Their robust genetics mean they’ll stick around longer than hybrids, both in terms of overall lifespan and egg-laying years. They’re also tougher cookies when it comes to health, with better resistance to diseases and reproductive issues.

But it’s not just about longevity. Heritage breeds are like the Swiss Army knives of the chicken world. They’ve kept their ancestral instincts intact, making them expert foragers and natural mothers. This self-sufficiency is a huge plus for backyard flock owners.

By raising heritage chickens, you’re not just getting eggs – you’re helping preserve living history. Many of these breeds are rare or endangered, so your backyard flock can play a part in conservation efforts.

And let’s talk personality. Many heritage breeds are known for their chill vibes and friendly dispositions. They’re often more docile than their hybrid counterparts, making them great companions for families or first-time chicken keepers.

Now, I’ll be honest – I steer clear of hybrid chickens myself. While they might pump out eggs like nobody’s business, it often comes at a cost to their health. Heritage breeds might not match those egg numbers on paper, but they’ll keep laying steadily for years without burning out.

So, which heritage breeds should you consider for your egg-laying dream team? Here are a few top contenders:

• Australorps

Kicking things off, we’ve got the Australorps. These friendly Aussies are egg-laying powerhouses, churning out around 250 large, pinkish-brown to light brown eggs annually.

They’re perfect for newbie chicken keepers, thanks to their calm nature. While they might not match the egg output of hybrid breeds, Australorps make up for it with their longer productive lifespan.

• Plymouth Rocks

Next up are the Plymouth Rocks, with the Barred variety leading the pack in egg production. These easy-going birds lay about 200 large brown eggs yearly and are a breeze to find locally. They’re great for beginners and come in various eye-catching colors recognized by the American Poultry Association.

• Rhode Island Reds

Don’t overlook the Rhode Island Reds! These heritage birds are so good at laying eggs (around 250 large brown ones per year) that they’re often used to create commercial hybrid breeds. They’re not just prolific layers; they’re also cost-effective, boasting a good feed-to-egg conversion rate.

• Wyandottes

Wyandottes are true show-stoppers with their stunning feather patterns, particularly the silver-laced and golden-laced varieties. They lay about 200 large brown eggs annually and are champs at braving cold winters. Just keep in mind that while the hens are generally friendly, some Wyandotte roosters might not win any popularity contests!

• Leghorns

If you’re after white eggs, Leghorns are your go-to birds. These famous layers can produce a whopping 280-300+ medium to large eggs each year. The white Leghorn variety is particularly prolific, with some strains hitting peak production of 300-350 eggs annually!

• Ancona

For those who love a bit of Mediterranean flair, consider the Ancona. These small-framed birds are egg-laying dynamos with an impressive feed-to-egg conversion rate. They’re heat-tolerant and excel at foraging, though they’re unlikely to go broody.

• Black Minorcas

Black Minorcas are another excellent choice, consistently laying large white eggs until they molt. They’re beautiful birds with a good temperament, but be warned – they’re speedy little escape artists!

• Buff Orpingtons

Buff Orpingtons might not top the charts in egg production, but they make up for it by being great all-rounders. They lay a respectable 200-250 large brown eggs yearly, perform well in winter, and make excellent broody hens.

• Cream Legbars

For those seeking something a bit different, Cream Legbars offer high production of light blue tinted eggs. They’re friendly birds that often continue laying through winter, even without supplemental lighting.

• Cuckoo Marans

Cuckoo Marans are your go-to for dark brown eggs. While not as dark as their French Copper cousins, they’re friendlier and more prolific layers.

• Delawares

Delawares are fantastic dual-purpose birds, excelling in both egg and meat production. They’re winter layers and make a great all-around breed for homesteaders.

• Plymouth Barred Rocks

Last but not least, we have the Plymouth Barred Rocks. These friendly birds are excellent layers, unfazed by cold weather, and a joy to have in your flock.

Top Chicken Breeds That Lay 300 Eggs a Year

Looking for chickens that are egg-laying powerhouses? Several breeds can produce an impressive 300 eggs annually.

Top performers include Rhode Island Reds, Isa Browns, Leghorns, and various hybrid strains like Red Stars, Black Stars, and Golden Comets. White Leghorns, known for their white eggs, are another high-yield option bred specifically for commercial production.

It’s worth noting that while these breeds excel at egg-laying, some may not be ideal for other purposes. If you’re after the most prolific layers, I’d suggest considering Isa Browns or Amberlinks. I’ve raised both in the past, and they’re solid choices for maximizing egg production.

Keep in mind that high egg output isn’t everything. Some of these breeds might not have the best personalities or free-range foraging instincts. It’s important to weigh your priorities when choosing the right chickens for your flock.

Which Chickens Lay the Biggest Eggs?

Ever wondered which chickens lay the biggest eggs? You’re not alone, and the answer involves a few key factors. First off, genetics are a major player. Certain breeds are just born to produce bigger eggs.

Age also matters. Typically, younger hens lay smaller eggs, while their older counterparts lay bigger ones. Diet is crucial, too. Hens feasting on a balanced diet rich in proteins tend to lay larger eggs. So, if you’re aiming for size, make sure your hens are well-fed with quality feed.

Speaking of chicken breeds, let’s dive into some known for their large eggs. Jersey Giants, for example, lay impressive eggs but fewer of them. If size trumps quantity for you, they might be your go-to.

Then there are the New Hampshires—robust layers of sizable eggs and known for their friendly nature. Leghorns are another great choice, laying large eggs consistently, although they might not be the friendliest.

There are plenty more breeds that could be a match for your coop if you’re after large eggs. To get the best out of your hens, provide a healthy living environment and plenty of care. Happy hens mean productive hens!

Lastly, let’s touch on the Minorcas and Leghorns. Minorcas are the largest of the Mediterranean breeds and lay some of the largest white eggs, around 200 annually. They’re not just prolific; they’re also stunning, with glossy black feathers and a striking red face.

Leghorns are a supermarket staple, known for their large, numerous eggs—expect around 280-320 jumbo eggs a year. If productivity is your goal, Leghorns are a solid bet.

Credit: The Happy Chicken Coop

Which Chickens Are the Marathon Egg Layers?

Ever wondered about the long-distance runners of the chicken world when it comes to egg-laying? Let’s crack this open! Heritage breed chickens are the true champions, keeping your breakfast table stocked for a whopping 5 to 6 years. That’s quite a feat compared to their hybrid cousins, who hang up their egg-laying hats after just 2 to 3 years.

But here’s the twist: hybrid breeds are like sprinters, giving you more eggs right out of the gate. Heritage breeds, on the other hand, are more like marathoners, steadily producing over a longer haul. So, which one’s right for you? It really boils down to your chicken-keeping goals.

If you’re okay with the idea of turning your flock into soup stock every few years, hybrids might be your best bet. But if you’re looking to start a backyard flock as feathered friends rather than future meals, heritage breeds could be right up your alley. It’s all about matching your chicken choice to your egg-spectations!

Top Chicken Breeds for Newbies

Starting your chicken-keeping journey? You’re not alone in wondering which breeds to pick. When we dove into this world, my partner and I had different priorities – I was drawn to eye-catching birds with colorful eggs, while he focused on prolific layers of jumbo eggs.

Your options might be limited if you’re buying locally, but online hatcheries offer a wider selection. That’s the route we took, though chicks have been flying off the virtual shelves lately!

Our starter flock included a mix of Amber Stars, New Hampshires, Rhode Island Reds, White Orpingtons, Red Stars, Dominiques, and later, some Andalusians.

After this experience, I’d heartily recommend Amber Stars, Rhode Island Reds, White and Buff Orpingtons, and Red Stars for beginners. These breeds are generally easygoing and reliable egg producers.

While Dominiques and Andalusians look stunning, they’ve been a bit standoffish compared to our other feathered friends. If egg production is your main goal, consider Leghorns – they’re laying machines!

We’ve since expanded our flock with some colorful egg layers: Easter Eggers, Blue Eggers, Olive Eggers, and more Buff Orpingtons. It’s been quite the adventure watching our backyard flock grow and diversify!

What Encourages Chickens to Lay Eggs?

Ever wondered what boosts egg production in chickens? Today, we’re diving into the key factors that help your hens be their most productive. Whether you’re curious about the role of age or the impact of light, we’ve got you covered.

• The Role of Age in Egg Laying

Age is a major player when it comes to how many eggs a hen lays. Younger hens typically outperform older ones in egg production. However, don’t write off the older ladies just yet! Even though they might not lay as frequently, many still contribute eggs regularly. For example, our three-year-old Amber Stars and Andalusians are still quite reliable.

• Lighting’s Impact on Egg Production

Light exposure is crucial. Hens require a certain amount of daylight to maintain their egg-laying rhythm. Less light usually means fewer eggs, which is why ensuring they have about 12 hours of light daily is ideal.

While some might opt for artificial lighting, we prefer to let the natural seasonal changes dictate their laying cycles. This approach gives them a rest during the shorter days of winter and ramps up production as the days lengthen in spring.

• Nutrition’s Influence on Egg Laying

A balanced diet is essential for healthy, productive hens. Lack of proper nutrition can significantly decrease egg output. That’s why it’s important to ensure your hens get enough protein and calcium.

We boost our hens’ diets with oyster shells for calcium and black soldier fly larvae for added nutrients. Adding these supplements, along with layer feed and extra treats like dried kelp, not only enhances their overall health but also improves egg quality. The vibrant orange yolks are a testament to their diet’s effectiveness!

We also provide our chickens with grit and oyster shells to aid their digestion and strengthen their eggshells, reducing breakage.

Learn how to Unleash the Power of Fermented Chicken Feed for Vibrant and Healthy Birds

• The Benefits of Free-Ranging

Letting your chickens free-range can drastically improve the nutritional value of their eggs. Free-range chickens feast on a natural diet including bugs, fruits, and vegetables, leading to eggs that are richer in Omega-3s, Vitamin E, and beta-carotene. They’re also lower in saturated fats and cholesterol compared to standard eggs.

• Managing Stress for Better Egg Production

Lastly, a stress-free environment is vital for optimal egg laying. Excessive noise or the presence of predators can deter hens from laying. We prioritize creating a peaceful, safe space for our hens, utilizing extensive predator-proof fencing and providing ample space for them to roam.

Can Your Hens Lay Eggs Without a Rooster?

Good news, backyard chicken enthusiasts! Your hens don’t need a rooster to be egg-laying superstars. You might have heard whispers that roosters are essential for egg production or that they boost your hens’ laying power. Let’s crack open those myths: hens are natural-born egg layers, with or without a rooster around.

The only time you’ll need a rooster in the mix is if you’re dreaming of fluffy little chicks running around your yard. So, unless you’re planning to expand your flock the old-fashioned way, your hens can handle the egg business all on their own!

Related posts:

• Herbs for Chickens: Top 14 Herbs To Grow For Your Flock
• Everything You Need to Know About Incubating Chicken Eggs
• Eggshells in Gardening: Surprising Benefits and Uses for Your Plants

source https://harvestsavvy.com/egg-laying-chicken-breeds/

How to Grow Cashew Trees: From Planting to Harvest and Enjoy These Nutritious Nuts

Cashew trees, originally from Brazil, thrive in tropical environments and are a powerhouse of health benefits. While not native to the U.S., cashews are widely cultivated in Vietnam, Nigeria, and India. They’re a staple in various global cuisines, providing a wealth of nutrients.

If you’re curious about these tasty trees, it’s fascinating to learn how they grow. However, patience is key; it takes about two to three years from planting to harvest your first batch of nuts. Keen to try your hand at growing cashews? Stick around for some essential tips and insights on nurturing these nutrient-rich trees.

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All About the Cashew Tree

The cashew tree, or Anacardium occidentale, is an intriguing evergreen and nut-bearing member of the Anacardiaceae family, initially found in northeastern Brazil and southeastern Venezuela.

It was the Portuguese explorers who dubbed it “caju” in the 16th century, a name that inspired its English moniker. Nowadays, this tree has made its home in other tropical regions worldwide, like India, Africa, and Southeast Asia.

Cashew trees thrive in tropical climates. You’ll find them growing in places with conditions similar to their native Brazil—think central Africa, Southeast Asia, and some Australian regions. They might even take root in southern Florida if the weather permits. Since cashews are perennials, they don’t handle cold well—temperatures below 50°F (10°C) are a no-go.

These trees are relatively low-maintenance and reward growers with more than just the famed nuts. They also produce a unique, sweet fruit known as the cashew apple, which, despite its tartness, is fantastic for making juice.

Credit: Heidi Bornhorst

Cashew trees aren’t just productive—they’re beautiful too, adorned with large leaves and charming pink flowers. And while the cashews are technically the seeds of the fruit, it’s the cashew apple that often steals the show in local culinary scenes, especially in jams and jellies.

Not just a pretty face, the cashew nut is packed with nutrients like calcium, vitamin C, and carbohydrates, belonging to the same family as the pistachio.

Rich in vitamin C, cashew apples boast up to five times more of this nutrient than oranges. They’re a bit acidic and leave a fuzzy feeling in your mouth, but they’re a treat when mixed in juices or blended into fruit yogurt. While cashews are calorie-dense, they’re also rich in copper, magnesium, and phosphorus, making them as nutritious as they are delicious.

But be cautious—the kidney-shaped shell that houses the cashew nut contains a harsh, caustic liquid that can cause severe burns. Handling them requires care, especially during the shelling process. More tips on safely processing these nuts will follow, ensuring you can enjoy all the benefits of your cashew tree safely and sustainably.

Credit: ebay

Where Can You Grow Cashew Trees?

Cashew trees flourish in the wet/dry tropics and are notably grown in Brazil, India, Vietnam, as well as Tanzania and Mozambique in Africa, and throughout Southeast Asia. If you live in a tropical area with no frost, where temperatures stay between 50°F (10°C) and 105°F (40°C), you’re in the perfect zone to start your own cashew tree.

These trees are impressively resilient, thriving even in drought conditions and on less fertile, marginal soils. They do best in well-draining sandy soils. An optimal average temperature of about 77°F (25°C) is ideal for growing cashews, ensuring they grow robustly, almost effortlessly, with just minimal watering.

Planting Cashew Trees Made Simple

Did you know you can grow cashew trees without lifting a finger? That’s right! In my garden, fruit bats took care of that by dropping cashew apples, and voilà—cashew trees started to sprout.

These trees are self-sufficient, thriving at the edge of my garden with minimal water and no fertilizer. Just three years in, they’re already bearing fruit. It’s fascinating that grafted cashews can fruit even faster, within just 18 months!

Growing cashews can be a breeze, but if you don’t have helpful fruit bats around, no worries. You can easily start with fresh seeds. Just remember, cashews grown from seeds may not mirror their parent tree exactly—they could vary in fruitfulness and taste.

If you’re looking to get a bit more predictable with your cashew cultivation, consider visiting local nurseries for seedlings or grafted trees. Many commercial growers handle their propagation, so connecting with a local grower could be beneficial.

To start your cashew journey, whether in pots or directly in the soil, keep the seeds moist, and you should see sprouts in less than a week. There’s no perfect time to plant—just ensure the seeds are fresh. Choose a well-drained location, shielded from strong winds, as cashew trees dislike soggy roots and heavy clay.

With enough space—about 30 feet between each tree—cashews can stretch up to 40 feet tall, transforming your garden into a lush, tropical haven.

Credit: Kimmy Farm

How to Take Care of a Cashew Nut Tree

Caring for cashew nut trees is quite straightforward. Start by ensuring your young trees get enough water, especially during dry spells, and provide them with the right kind of fertilizer. Opt for fertilizers that are rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and possibly zinc, which are crucial during their flowering and nut development phases.

It’s also a good idea to prune your cashew trees occasionally to remove any branches that are broken or showing signs of disease. If you notice pests like the twig borer attacking the foliage, promptly treat your trees with a suitable naturally-sourced insecticide.

For optimal growth, consider purchasing a potted cashew tree from your local garden center. These trees thrive in full sun, requiring at least six hours of direct sunlight daily to fruit well. Cashew trees don’t do well in the shade as they produce fewer seeds.

When it comes to soil, cashews prefer sandy types with a moderate pH around six. Steer clear of clay or overly dense soils since they retain too much moisture, which isn’t ideal for cashews.

Make sure to water your trees more frequently in the summer and reduce watering in the winter, allowing the soil to dry out completely between watering sessions to prevent root rot.

Fertilization is another key aspect. Apply a phosphorus-rich fertilizer bi-monthly during the growing season and consider adding a layer of compost or organic mulch to enrich the soil further.

Handling cashew trees requires care due to the caustic oil in their shells, similar to that found in poison ivy, which can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions. Always wear thick gardening gloves when handling raw cashews or their shells.

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Even in nutrient-poor sandy soils, cashew trees generally manage well with minimal fertilization—perhaps just once or twice a year. Despite this, ensure the area around your cashew trees remains weed-free, even after they are established, to promote optimal growth and fruit production.

Cashew trees are relatively low-maintenance once mature and can survive with minimal care, making them a great choice for both novice and experienced gardeners. Regular pruning of dead or weak branches can stimulate better growth and fruit production.

Not only are cashews valued for their tasty nuts, but the fruits are also delightful, offering a sweet, juicy flavor. Cashew butter, an alternative to peanut butter, is another delicious product derived from these versatile trees, packed with essential vitamins and nutrients that contribute to a healthier diet.

Growing Your Own Cashew Trees from Seed

Here’s something you might not know: the cashew nut isn’t actually the main fruit of its tree but rather a kind of secondary product. The real star is the fleshy, apple-like part attached to the nut, which is delicious but spoils quickly. The nut itself, on the other hand, can last up to four months after being harvested, making it perfect for planting.

Growing cashew trees isn’t too tough and can be quite rewarding. You can start your own tree using seeds, layering, or grafting. However, if you’re thinking about planting seeds, you’ll need fresh, unshelled nuts. Forget about using the ones from the grocery store; those have been treated to crack open their hard shells and won’t sprout.

Credit: thesurvivalgardener

If you happen to find a viable cashew seed—say, from a local tree or a friend who brought one from abroad—plant it in early spring. Bury the seed about 3 inches deep in sandy, well-drained soil and give it plenty of space to flourish, ideally about 30 feet from other trees. Cashews like it sunny and can grow up to 40 feet tall, so make sure they have room to stretch out.

Remember, those store-bought cashews won’t germinate, and importing viable seeds can be tricky since they don’t stay fresh long after harvest. My attempt with an imported seed didn’t quite pan out—it was a fun story but no cashew tree.

If you’re lucky enough to get your hands on a fresh seed, plant it during a warm spell, and with the right conditions, you might just get a cashew tree started.

Credit: thesurvivalgardener

Dealing with Pests and Diseases in Cashew Trees

Cashew trees are generally resilient, but like any plant, they can encounter pests and diseases. Common pests include leaf-eating insects, twig borers, and leaf miners. Twig borers gnaw into smaller branches, which may cause them to fall off, while leaf miners create tiny tunnels in the leaves.

While these pests typically don’t threaten mature trees, they can be more problematic for younger saplings, which might require a fruit-tree-specific insecticide for protection.

Fungal infections can also occur, particularly Anthracnose, which thrives in moist conditions and often appears during wet seasons. This fungus causes watery lesions on leaves and fruits that eventually turn rusty brown. Removing infected areas and applying a fungicide can effectively manage this disease.

As cashew fruits develop, larger animals like rodents and bats can also pose a threat. Harvesting the fruits as soon as they ripen and installing a protective fence can help safeguard your harvest.

Additionally, regular mulching not only suppresses weeds but also helps retain soil moisture, keeping your cashew tree healthy and more resistant to pests and diseases.

Keep an eye out for signs of borer pests, especially if you notice any swelling in the stem, which can indicate an infestation. These pests can damage cashews from the seedling stage onwards. Pruning affected branches or applying a bark spray are effective ways to combat these common adversaries.

Harvest and Storage

Cashew trees start to bear fruit about three years after planting, but if you’ve got a grafted variety, you might see fruit as early as one year. When winter rolls around, your cashew trees will blossom and, a few months later, produce fruits that somewhat resemble pears with a bulky nut attached at the end.

These fruits usually begin yellow, deepening to red when ripe, while the nut turns a grayish hue. Aim to harvest them before they hit the ground to avoid bruising and pest problems.

You’ll notice a single cashew nut per fruit, encased in a tough shell. Because each fruit yields just one nut, you might want to accumulate a bunch before you tackle shelling them—a task that’s quite labor-intensive due to the caustic resin inside the shells.

Store unprocessed nuts in a cool, dry place for up to two years until you’re ready to shell them in bulk. Freezing the nuts before cracking them open is the easiest way to handle them, making the resin less messy to deal with. Remember to wear protective gloves and long sleeves during this process to avoid irritation.

Don’t forget, the cashew apple is also a treat in itself. While you can’t usually buy them in stores, you can enjoy them fresh from your tree, either eaten as is or juiced. Given the rarity of these fruits commercially, take the opportunity to savor this unique flavor.

For those who find the nut processing too daunting, cashew trees still offer sweet fruit and the young shoots, which can be cooked and enjoyed with various dishes.

Safe Methods for Processing Cashews

Cashew nuts aren’t like your typical snack nuts. Their shells hide a nasty surprise—a toxic, caustic liquid that can seriously burn your skin! So, when you’re extracting these nuts, it’s crucial to avoid contact with this hazardous fluid, and definitely keep it away from your eyes.

Freezing the shells first is one handy method to handle them safely. This makes it easier to break them open without the liquid contacting your skin. Even so, wearing gloves, long sleeves, and safety goggles is a must. You can enjoy the nuts raw once they’re safely out, but make sure they’re completely free from any residual toxic liquid!

For roasting, a quick method involves heating the nuts in a perforated pan over an open flame for about a minute. This setup allows the harmful fumes to escape, and any flames that might flare up can be quickly extinguished with water.

Alternatively, a more controlled method uses a rotating, slanted, perforated cylinder above a fire. This allows the toxic shell oil to drain and be collected safely. Post-roasting, the nuts are typically tossed in ash or sawdust to absorb any lingering oil.

Credit: A Food Centric Life

You’ll also find methods that involve deep frying the nuts in hot oil at 210°C (410°F) for a couple of minutes—just enough time without making them too brittle.

Be cautious though; as they cook, they might spit back some of that caustic liquid. Once done, cool them swiftly in water, crack them open, and they’re ready to try. Though I haven’t tried this myself, it’s said to be quite tasty!

Another roasting technique includes heating them in an open, perforated pan for a short time, allowing any toxic liquid to drain. It’s essential not to inhale the fumes during this process, and if any fires start, smother them with water. Afterward, a final cleanse in sawdust helps remove the last traces of the caustic liquid.

Post-roast, you can finally shell the nuts and enjoy your hard-earned snack. It sounds like a bit of an adventure, doesn’t it?

However, if you’re thinking of processing homegrown cashews, think again. The shell’s oily liquid is dangerously irritating, and even the sap from the tree can cause severe skin reactions. And remember, the smoke from burning any part of the tree is toxic.

So, while it might take a bit of practice to perfect this process, it’s best left to those with experience in handling these tricky nuts. Good luck, and don’t get discouraged if it takes a few tries to get it right!

Cashew Nut Information

Did you know that cashew trees blossom in the chill of winter instead of the warm summer months? These trees are not just winter bloomers but also set fruit during this cooler season.

They feature lovely rose-colored flowers that emit a sweet fragrance and grow in clusters. These blossoms then mature into vibrant red cashew apples. Interestingly, the actual cashews are not the fruit but are found in tough shells at the base of these apples.

However, handling these shells requires care as they contain a harsh oil that can burn your skin or cause irritation. A handy tip for safely extracting the nuts is to freeze them first. This makes it easier to separate the nuts from their toxic shells. Remember to gear up with gloves, a long-sleeved shirt, and even safety glasses to protect yourself during this process.

Both the cashew apples and the nuts are packed with nutrients. They’re a great source of vitamin C, calcium, iron, and vitamin B1, making them a healthy addition to your diet.

The nutrition facts for cashews, based on a one-ounce serving (about 28 grams or approximately 18 nuts):

• Calories: 157
• Protein: 5 grams
• Fat: 12 grams
• Carbohydrates: 9 grams
• Fiber: 1 gram
• Sugar: Less than 2 grams
• Copper: 67% of the Daily Value (DV)
• Magnesium: 20% DV
• Manganese: 20% DV
• Zinc: 15% DV
• Phosphorus: 13% DV
• Iron: 11% DV
• Selenium: 10% DV
• Thiamine (Vitamin B1): 10% DV
• Vitamin K: 8% DV
• Vitamin B6: 7% DV

Invasive Concerns Down Under

Cashews can thrive and even become invasive in certain environments, like northern Queensland and other parts of Australia. Known scientifically as Anacardium occidentale, cashews are sometimes considered environmental weeds.

They’ve spread into natural areas, partly due to animals like fruit bats. Although their impact is currently limited, there’s concern they could become more problematic, especially in Australia’s monsoon regions.

The cashew was first recognized as a naturalized plant in Australia’s Northern Territory back in 1988, and it’s been causing trouble in areas like the Tiwi-Cobourg bioregion.

Over on the Cape York Peninsula and Horn Island in the Torres Strait, cashews are also on the rise as invasive plants. Even around Townsville, they’re listed as undesirable due to their negative effects on local vegetation.

There have even been unconfirmed sightings of cashews going wild in Western Australia’s coastal regions north of Broome and around Kimberley settlements. But for those of us growing them in our backyards, they’re not as aggressive as, say, kudzu vines. You’d really need to neglect a cashew tree for years to see it take over.

And when I manage to get my hands on some ripe cashew fruits, I’m excited to try out making juice or whip up a unique recipe to share with you! I might even experiment with roasting cashews—though that can be tricky since getting it wrong could be hazardous. I’ll probably let someone with experience take the lead on that first.

For now, I’m just enjoying watching my cashew seedlings grow.

Related posts:

• Ultimate Guide for Beginners to Growing Apples and Apple Trees
• Growing Sumac in Your Garden: A Guide to This Vibrant and Beneficial Native Plant
• Unlocking the Benefits of Sugar Maple Trees for Small Farms Beyond Maple Syrup

source https://harvestsavvy.com/grow-cashew-trees/

Everything You Need to Know About Huntsman Spiders: Nature’s Pest Controllers

Huntsman spiders are well-known across Australia and are notorious for spooking those who fear spiders, thanks to their large size, quick movements, and preference for cozying up in human homes. They primarily feast on insects and other small invertebrates, yet there are plenty of tales about people getting bitten by these critters.

These spiders are a prominent part of Australian culture, inspiring everything from company names in the automotive industry to groups of warriors in fantasy novels. For visitors not accustomed to encountering palm-sized spiders dangling above their sleeping quarters, the experience can be quite alarming.

Despite their daunting appearance and reputation, huntsman spiders are among the most benign of their kind. They pose little threat to humans, and you might even consider letting them wander around your home as natural pest controllers.

What Are Huntsman Spiders?

Huntsman spiders, members of the Sparassidae family, are aptly named for their quick hunting style. Often called giant crab spiders due to their large size and shape, these arachnids are commonly found in forests, mine shafts, and woodpiles.

In southern Africa, some species have earned nicknames like “rain spiders” or “lizard-eating spiders.” Despite their appearance, they’re not to be confused with baboon spiders, which belong to a different family altogether.

In Australia, huntsman spiders are well-known and sometimes feared for their imposing looks and rapid movements. They’ve gained a reputation for sneaking into homes and cars, giving many people a fright. However, these spiders are actually more helpful than harmful, as they primarily feed on household pests like cockroaches.

Credit: wikipedia

Over a thousand species of huntsman spiders thrive worldwide, particularly in warm, temperate to tropical climates. They can be found across Australia, Africa, Asia, the Mediterranean region, and the Americas.

Some huntsman species have developed unique defensive moves: the wheel spider from the Namib Desert can literally roll away from danger, while another species performs an impressive handspring to escape threats.

Unlike many of their web-spinning cousins, huntsman spiders are nocturnal hunters that actively chase down their prey. They’re not without predators themselves, though – geckos, other spiders, and potter wasps all consider huntsman spiders a tasty meal.

Key facts about huntsman spiders:

1. Physical features: They have flat bodies that allow them to squeeze into tight spaces, along with long, hairy legs that can span several inches. Most are brown or grey, helping them blend into their surroundings.
2. Habitat: These adaptable spiders make their homes in various places, from houses and gardens to forests and caves. They’re common in many parts of the world, especially in Australia and the Americas.
3. Hunting style: Known for their speed and agility, huntsman spiders chase down insects, small vertebrates, and even other spiders instead of relying on webs.
4. Venom: While their bites are venomous, they’re not lethal to humans. A bite might cause pain and swelling, but severe reactions are uncommon.
5. Life cycle: Female huntsman spiders lay eggs in silk sacs, which they guard fiercely. The young spiders go through several molts before reaching adulthood.
6. Natural enemies: Birds and larger spiders are their main predators, but huntsman spiders’ quick reflexes often help them escape. Some wasps and flies target them during their vulnerable larval stage.
7. Cultural impact: While some cultures appreciate huntsman spiders for their role in controlling insect populations, their sudden appearances in homes can often startle people.

What Do Huntsman Spiders Look Like?

Huntsman spiders are often mistaken for tarantulas due to their size, but you can tell them apart by their unique leg structure. Typically, they sport a brown or gray hue and a hairy body, which blends seamlessly into natural backdrops like tree bark or leaf litter.

Their body size is about as big as a fingerprint, while their leg span can reach from the size of your palm to more than 5 inches across in some species.

These spiders have a characteristic flat body shape that helps them sneak into tight spaces to hide or hunt. This shape is complemented by their long, spindly legs that are covered in fine hairs and sometimes feature bands or patterns.

The legs, distinctively twisted so that the knees lean back and can stretch forward like a crab’s, are what make the huntsman so recognizable.

Their eyes are another distinctive feature, with eight of them lined up in two rows that face mostly forward, helping them spot prey. Below these eyes, their chelicerae—mouthparts with fangs—are prominent, ready to inject venom into their prey.

While their upper surfaces are more subdued in color to keep them hidden, many huntsman spiders display more striking black-and-white patterns on their undersides, with reddish patches near their mouths. Despite their daunting appearance, these spiders are not as fierce as they look and play a beneficial role in controlling pests.

Credit: Drive-Bye Exterminators

Globally, these spiders vary greatly in size and color, with some of the largest species found in Laos, known for reaching a leg span of up to nearly 12 inches!

Though not present in Australia, the giant huntsman spider, the largest by leg span, calls the caves of Laos its home. Whether they’re squeezing into narrow gaps or sprawling across your wall, huntsman spiders are fascinating creatures perfectly adapted to their environments.

Habitat, Behavior, and Global Presence

Huntsman spiders stand out from other spider families mainly due to their size and distinct appearance, including their crab-like, laterigrade legs and less bulky bodies compared to tarantulas, despite both being hairy.

These spiders, identifiable by their two rows of four eyes and a pair of claws used for hunting, mostly feed on insects and occasionally on small reptiles like skinks and geckos.

One interesting behavior observed particularly in the male Heteropoda venatoria, a well-traveled huntsman species, involves producing vibrations through their abdomen to communicate with potential mates via pheromones left by females.

Globally, huntsman spiders are found in warm and tropical climates from Australia to the Americas, thriving in diverse environments such as homes, gardens, forests, and even vehicles.

In Australia, they are a common sight, adapting seamlessly to both urban and natural settings. Similarly, in Southeast Asia and Africa, these spiders inhabit a mix of urban and rural areas, making homes in natural and man-made structures alike.

In the Americas, particularly in warmer southern states like Florida and Texas, huntsman spiders are often encountered. They also populate various islands and tropical regions, showing a remarkable ability to adapt to different habitats, from rainforests to coastal areas.

Typically, huntsman spiders don’t build webs; instead, they are active hunters, often seen scurrying across walls and ceilings in pursuit of prey.

Despite their intimidating size and speed, they are not generally considered dangerous to humans, but they will defend themselves and their young vigorously if threatened, making them a notable presence in any environment they inhabit.

The Life Cycle of Huntsman Spiders

Ever wondered about the life cycle of a huntsman spider? These fascinating creatures kick things off when the weather gets warm and humid. Huntsman spiders are known for their mating habits—interestingly, the males usually escape unscathed post-romance, unlike in some other spider species.

After mating, a female huntsman prepares for her future brood by spinning a flat, oval silk sac, depositing about 200 eggs inside. She might tuck it away under bark or a rock and then fiercely guards it for a few weeks. Don’t provoke her during this time; she’s not afraid to put on a defensive show!

As the eggs incubate, the spiderlings inside develop and hatch after about three weeks. These little ones start life pale but gain their typical grey or brown shades after several molts as they grow. Initially, they stick close to mom, who might linger with her young for several weeks, offering protection.

Credit: M JITHESH PAI

Speaking of growth, like all spiders, huntsmans grow by molting, shedding old skins that can sometimes be found hanging around—if you see these, you know huntsmans aren’t far off!

While most huntsman spiders are loners, only coming together to mate, there’s a species known as the social huntsman that lives communally under tree bark in groups of up to 150. Remember the spiders from the movie Arachnophobia? Yep, those were social huntsmans.

These spiders generally live for about two years, thriving in various environments influenced by temperature, humidity, and available prey. The life cycle of a huntsman spider, from egg to maturity, can span from a few months to a couple of years, depending on the species and environmental conditions.

It’s a journey of growth, survival, and occasional communal living that might just change the way you look at these often-misunderstood creatures!

Bite Management and First Aid Tips

Huntsman spiders are generally harmless to humans and rarely bite unless provoked. If you do get bitten, applying a cold pack usually helps with minor pain and swelling.

However, be cautious of species like the Badge Huntsman found in Australia, which can cause more severe symptoms such as prolonged pain, inflammation, or even vomiting. In these cases, it’s best to see a doctor.

These spiders typically aren’t aggressive towards humans, except when females are guarding their eggs. More often than not, they’ll run away rather than confront you. But if threatened, especially when cornered, a huntsman might stand up on its hind legs and wave its front legs as a warning. If you see this behavior, it’s wise to back off and give the spider some space.

Huntsman spiders are quick and can jump, which is another reason to keep your distance, particularly if the spider looks ready to leap. They’re also very protective of their young, with females producing up to 200 babies per egg sac. It’s best to avoid what might be a pregnant spider guarding her eggs.

Despite their intimidating appearance, huntsman spiders are actually beneficial because they eat common household pests like cockroaches. While their venom can paralyze small insects, it’s not very dangerous to humans. Most bites only cause mild symptoms like localized swelling and temporary pain, rarely needing medical attention.

Serious reactions are uncommon, but people with allergies or sensitivities might experience more noticeable symptoms.

If you do get bitten, cleaning the wound and applying a cold compress should be enough to ease the discomfort. To minimize the risk of bites, avoid disturbing these spiders. If you find a huntsman spider indoors, it’s safer to carefully capture and release it outside rather than trying to handle or kill it.

What Do Huntsman Spiders Eat?

Huntsman spiders are skilled hunters with a diverse diet. Let’s explore what these agile arachnids typically eat:

• Insects: Huntsman spiders primarily feed on a wide variety of insects, including flies, moths, crickets, grasshoppers, and beetles. They use their speed and agility to ambush and overpower their prey.
• Other Spiders: Surprisingly, huntsman spiders also eat other spiders, including smaller members of their own species and web-spinning spiders.
• Small Vertebrates: Larger huntsman spiders occasionally catch and eat small vertebrates like geckos and tiny lizards, demonstrating their adaptability as predators.
• Other Arthropods: Their menu extends to various arachnids (such as scorpions and harvestmen) and myriapods (like centipedes and millipedes).
• Opportunistic Feeders: Huntsman spiders aren’t picky eaters. They’ll consume whatever suitable prey they can find in their environment, which varies depending on their habitat and location.

Huntsman spiders are primarily nocturnal hunters, relying on their keen eyesight and hunting skills to track and capture prey in the dark. They often employ ambush tactics, hiding in crevices, under tree bark, or even in plain sight on walls and ceilings. When prey comes within range, they strike swiftly to catch it.

Once they’ve captured their prey, huntsman spiders use their venomous fangs to paralyze it and begin breaking down its internal tissues. They then consume their meal by sucking up the liquefied insides, extracting essential nutrients.

Despite their impressive hunting abilities and sometimes intimidating appearance, huntsman spiders pose little threat to humans. In fact, they play a beneficial role in controlling insect populations, which can be particularly helpful around homes. However, their large size can be startling, especially when they unexpectedly appear indoors.

Wolf Spider VS Huntsman

Let’s talk about the confusion between huntsman spiders and wolf spiders—they’re pretty similar, but definitely not the same! Both of these critters are speedy and skip the whole web-building process, and they look alike in terms of size, shape, and color.

Credit: A-Z Animals

Now, the huntsman spider has a body that’s wider than it’s long, mostly sporting a simple, unadorned color. Its legs bend a bit backwards, which helps it stretch its legs forward more smoothly.

On the flip side, the wolf spider sports a longer body decked out with more flair. You might spot a “cat’s eye” design or some stripes from the center of its back. Unlike the huntsman, its legs are jointed vertically, giving it a less crab-like look. You could say the wolf spider’s got a bit more style, thanks to its flashy patterns!

Why Huntsman Spiders Are More Helpful Than Harmful

If you live in southern WA, you might be noticing more huntsman spiders around your home or even in your car. Don’t worry, though! These sizable critters, which can have a leg span of up to 15 centimeters, are more of a help than a hazard.

According to Dr. Mark Harvey, head of terrestrial zoology at the WA Museum, while many spiders are less active during this season, huntsman spiders are on the move, hunting for food and mates.

Despite their daunting appearance, huntsman spiders are harmless to humans. They don’t make webs or nests; instead, they roam freely to catch their prey, mainly moths, which are often attracted to household lights. This time of year, you’ll see them more because they’re busy seeking out these insects.

Dr. Harvey explains that our homes act like “giant lobster traps” for these spiders. They sneak in through small gaps but often can’t find their way out, and there isn’t enough food for them inside. So, if you find one, it’s best to gently guide it back outdoors where it can thrive and continue keeping pests at bay.

For a safe and effective catch-and-release, avoid using a broom, as these spiders can move quickly up the handle. Instead, coax the spider onto a flat surface, cover it with a jar, and slide a piece of paper underneath to secure it.

Safely take it outside, release it, and watch it scurry away. This method ensures safety for both you and the spider, minimizing stress for all involved.

Living with Huntsman Spiders

In Australia, the excitement never stops—even at home. Picture this: Jake Gray, an Aussie, has been cohabitating with a rather unusual houseguest—a gigantic huntsman spider. Over the past year, Jake has shared updates on Facebook about living with this enormous arachnid, whom he affectionately calls Charlotte.

Unlike most of us who would probably pack up at the sight of such a creature, Jake seems to have embraced Charlotte as a quirky roommate. He even hopes she grows bigger!

Credit: iflscience

Huntsman spiders, while formidable in size, aren’t as dangerous as they look. Jake’s family has learned to appreciate Charlotte for her role in controlling pests like cockroaches, using only the most gentle methods to guide her around.

Charlotte has become something of a pet, with Jake recounting how she’s taken down an Asian house gecko—a spectacle that marked a highlight of her stay. Online, folks joke that Charlotte really owns the place now, but despite their menacing appearance, these spiders are more likely to flee than fight. Their venom is mild to humans, posing little risk.

In an amusing twist, the biggest danger these spiders pose is the potential for human overreaction—like the unfortunate soul who ended up driving into a lake out of sheer panic!

So, if you ever find a huntsman spider in your living space, take a breath and consider a gentle catch-and-release approach. According to spider expert Linda S. Rayor, keeping calm is your best bet. She notes that in over a decade of research, she’s only been bitten a handful of times, usually under circumstances where the spider felt threatened.

Australia, never dull, continues to be a place where even the spiders can become part of the family lore.

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• Unraveling the Mystery of Frothy “Frog Spit” on Plants
• A Gardener’s Guide to Controlling Earwig Populations
• Eco-Friendly Strategies to Protect Your Garden from Japanese Beetles

source https://harvestsavvy.com/huntsman-spiders/