Widely found across North America, the tomato hornworm, also known as Manduca quinquemaculata, poses a significant threat to various crops like tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants, and even tobacco.
These pests are voracious eaters, devouring whole leaves, small branches, and occasionally nibbling on fruits. Despite their substantial size, their camouflaged appearance makes them tough to detect.
Often, the damage they cause—stripped patches on plants—becomes apparent before the hornworms themselves are spotted. This usually happens around midsummer and can persist as the season progresses. If you’re looking to identify or eliminate these garden invaders, this guide provides all the essential information you’ll need.
What are hornworms?
Have you ever grown tomatoes? If so, you might have encountered green caterpillars known as hornworms. These pests, primarily the tomato hornworm and tobacco hornworm, are prevalent across the U.S. and southern Canada. They pose a significant threat to tomatoes and can decimate a crop in no time.
Additionally, they munch on other members of the nightshade family, including eggplants, peppers, potatoes, and tobacco, blending seamlessly into the foliage and voraciously consuming the leaves and fruits, leaving them riddled with holes and chew marks.
The tomato hornworm is actually the juvenile form of the five-spotted hawk moth, known scientifically as Manduca quinquemaculata. This caterpillar is a nightmare for those who cherish their vegetable patches, particularly because of its capacity to rapidly strip tomatoes and similar plants bare.
Meanwhile, hornworm caterpillars are the young of the hummingbird or sphinx moth, famed for its rapid wing flapping. These moths can often be seen hovering like hummingbirds and feeding on nectar at dusk, signaling the presence of hornworms nearby.
Interestingly, these pests are identifiable by their distinct horn-like protrusions: black on tomato hornworms and red on tobacco hornworms. They feast on a variety of plants, including tomatoes, eggplants, various peppers, tobacco, and potatoes.
The first signs of their presence are usually small, round holes in the leaves, appearing in late spring as the larvae begin to feed. When they first hatch, the caterpillars are tiny and hard to spot, but as they grow, they can cause extensive defoliation, leaving only the skeletons of leaves and branches behind.
In its adult stage, the tomato hornworm becomes a robust hawk moth or sphinx moth, primarily active at night, feeding on the nectar of various flowers. This transformation from a destructive caterpillar to a nectar-sipping moth is a fascinating aspect of its lifecycle.
How to Spot Tomato Hornworms in Your Garden
If you’re tending a vegetable garden, keep an eye out for tomato hornworms—these caterpillars are among the biggest you might encounter, reaching lengths of 3 to 4 inches. They’re easily recognizable by their bright green bodies adorned with seven white diagonal stripes and a distinctive horn, either black or red, at their tail end.
These caterpillars transform into large, robust moths with a wingspan of 4 to 5 inches. Their front wings are slim and they sport a mottled gray-brown color with yellow spots along their abdomen.
The back wings feature a pattern of alternating light and dark bands. Known variously as sphinx moths, hawk moths, or hummingbird moths, these adults are quick fliers capable of hovering just like hummingbirds.
Spotting the larvae might require a bit of detective work. Search for tiny black droppings, known as frass, on the leaves and the ground, which are telltale signs of their presence.
Spritzing water on the foliage can cause these critters to move abruptly, revealing their hiding spots. They are most active around dusk, dawn, and during the night. To spot them, use a UV flashlight; their bodies will glow, making it seem as if your plants are dotted with tiny lights.
Check for other signs of infestation like partially eaten leaves and drooping, wilted foliage. Sometimes, you’ll also see white cocoons and the hornworms nearby. Remember, while these caterpillars look daunting with their horn-like protrusions, they are harmless as they cannot sting or bite.
Life Cycle Of Tomato Hornworms
Tomato and tobacco hornworms start their life cycle as larvae and grow into large moths known locally as sphinx, hawk, or hummingbird moths. Here’s a snapshot of their journey: These pests are notorious for munching on garden plants, particularly tomatoes and tobacco, although they don’t shy away from similar species.
The tomato hornworm is recognized by its bright green body, white, V-shaped markings, and a distinctive black horn at the back, whereas the tobacco hornworm sports a red horn and diagonal white stripes.
Their lifecycle kicks off in late spring when the adult moths lay eggs, usually at night. A single female can lay up to 2,000 eggs under ideal conditions. These eggs hatch within a week, and the larvae feast on your plants for about a month. Typically, the lifecycle from egg to adult spans 30 to 50 days, allowing for multiple generations in a single season.
When it’s time to pupate, the larvae burrow into the soil, emerging as moths after 2 to 4 weeks. They then mate and lay eggs, continuing the cycle. Depending on the climate, you might see two generations of hornworms each year.
In summary, tomato hornworms camouflage well against green leaves, survive winters as pupae, and undergo several stages before re-emerging as moths to reproduce. Their ability to produce multiple generations each year makes them a persistent challenge for gardeners.
Tomato and Tobacco Hornworms: Spot the Difference
It’s easy to confuse the tomato hornworm with its close relative, the tobacco hornworm, as both caterpillars share a striking resemblance and feast on plants from the Solanaceae family.
The tomato hornworm, known scientifically as Manduca quinquemaculata, stands out in your garden as a sizable green caterpillar, measuring between three to four inches. It boasts eight distinctive white, diagonal stripes on its sides and features a prominent black horn protruding from its rear.
Conversely, the tobacco hornworm, or Manduca sexta, displays seven white stripes with a unique red horn and is often linked to the adult form known as the tobacco hawk moth or Carolina sphinx moth. Both these pests are commonly found in North American gardens munching on tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, and eggplants.
Here’s a quick guide to differentiate them:
- Tobacco hornworms are marked by parallel white stripes and black spots along each stripe, ending in a red horn.
- Tomato hornworms are identified by their white V-shaped markings and lack the black spots, sporting a black horn instead.
Damage caused by tomato hornworms
Tomato hornworms are a common menace in gardens, often targeting tomatoes along with other plants like potatoes, eggplants, and peppers. These large caterpillars are notorious for their voracious appetite, swiftly stripping plants of their leaves, particularly at the upper sections.
Their preference for blending in with the green foliage makes them particularly stealthy, and they frequently go unnoticed until significant damage has occurred.
The destruction begins subtly, with large, irregular holes appearing in the leaves and flowers, and scars marring the fruits. This not only weakens the plants but also exposes the fruits to hazards like sunscald, due to diminished leaf cover.
These pests are most active during cooler parts of the day, such as dusk, dawn, or nighttime, which is the best time to spot them feeding openly.
Detecting hornworms can often start with finding their distinctive large, black droppings on leaves or the soil beneath the plants. If you notice a rapid and extensive loss of foliage and visible damage to the fruit, it’s likely you’re dealing with either tomato or tobacco hornworms. Managing these pests early is crucial to prevent them from decimating your garden.
How To Prevent Hornworms And Get Rid Of Tomato Hornworms
Just when you’re eagerly anticipating your first ripe tomato of the season, you might find that something has already been devouring your plants. This is often the work of the tomato hornworm, a large, green caterpillar identifiable by a distinctive “horn” on its rear.
This pest is notorious for quickly stripping tomato plants of their leaves. While it has a preference for tomatoes, it won’t hesitate to attack potatoes, eggplants, peppers, tobacco, and other members of the nightshade family.
Fortunately, you can control these pests without chemicals. Natural methods are effective in eliminating tomato hornworms. Additionally, spotting the early signs of an infestation can prevent these garden invaders from causing significant damage.
Keep an Eye on Your Garden
It’s crucial to consistently check your garden for tomato hornworms to effectively manage them. These pests originate from the five-spotted hawk moths. While these caterpillars can grow quite large, around 3 to 5 inches, they’re surprisingly good at hiding thanks to their ability to mimic the green of the leaves.
They’re most active during the early to midsummer when your tomato plants are usually at their peak. Look for their unique V-shaped white stripes and prominent black horns to spot them. However, the earliest signs of their presence might be the chewed leaves and the dark green droppings they leave behind.
The adult moths are easier to spot with their gray-brown bodies, large wingspans of 4 to 5 inches, and distinctive yellow spots on their abdomens. They are most active at night, resembling nocturnal hummingbirds as they feed on nectar.
Keep an eye out for the female moth’s tiny green eggs on the leaves in late spring, signaling the start of a potential infestation. Once hatched, these hornworms can voraciously consume your plants for up to four weeks.
Here’s a quick tip: Don’t confuse the tomato hornworm with its relative, the tobacco hornworm, which is found mainly in the southeastern U.S. and attacks plants from the nightshade family.
The tobacco hornworm has a reddish horn and diagonal white stripes, unlike the tomato hornworm’s V-shaped marks. Regardless of the type, the damage they cause is significant.
Handpick Off Your Plants
If you come across tomato hornworms on your plants, a simple and effective method is to manually remove them. These caterpillars, recognized by their hefty size, are harmless—they neither sting nor bite.
However, if the thought of touching them makes you uneasy, consider wearing garden gloves. Once you’ve gently plucked them from the leaves, submerge them in a bucket filled with soapy water to dispatch them.
Tomato hornworms are voracious feeders, so it’s wise to check your plants each evening. During this time, hornworms are more active and easier to spot. Aiming a flashlight at your foliage can illuminate these pests, making it easier to spot and remove them quickly.
This hands-on approach not only keeps your garden safe but is also straightforward—perfect for those with smaller gardens or who prefer a direct method of pest control. If you’re part of a farming household, you might even consider feeding these plucked pests to your chickens as a treat.
Natural enemies can help manage hornworms
Hornworms, a common garden pest, can be effectively controlled by natural predators. Beneficial insects like green lacewings, ladybugs, and various wasps play a crucial role in this.
Specifically, green lacewings and ladybugs target the early stages of hornworms, preying on their eggs and young caterpillars. The paper wasp, a prevalent garden visitor, also consumes various caterpillars, including the hornworm.
One of the most effective natural enemies of the hornworm is the braconid wasp, Cotesia congregatus. This tiny, beneficial wasp lays its eggs beneath the caterpillar’s skin. As the eggs hatch, the larvae feed internally until ready to pupate, emerging to spin cocoon-like structures that resemble white rice grains on the host’s body.
If you spot a hornworm adorned with these cocoons, it’s best to leave it in the garden or relocate it to a less critical area of your garden. This allows the wasp to complete its lifecycle and continue controlling the hornworm population.
Additionally, you can attract more braconid wasps by planting nectar-rich flowers like sweet alyssum, chamomile, and yarrow, or letting herbs like dill and fennel flower. These plants draw these helpful insects to your garden, enhancing your defense against hornworms and other pests.
It’s also important to note that if you find a hornworm covered in white cocoons, it has been parasitized. Leaving these hornworms undisturbed allows the emerging wasps to continue their cycle of predation. Such measures not only control the existing hornworm population but also prevent future infestations.
Grow Companion Plants That Repel Hornworms
Add some companion plants to your garden to naturally fend off tomato hornworms and enhance the overall health of your garden. Planting basil near your tomatoes not only wards off hornworms but also discourages other pests like thrips and aphids. Plus, many gardeners report that basil boosts both the yield and taste of tomatoes.
Borage, with its cucumber-like flavor, is another effective choice for repelling hornworms. It’s adorned with clusters of vivid blue, star-shaped flowers that are great at attracting bees and wasps that control pests.
Marigolds are also champions in the fight against tomato hornworms. The strong scent from their essential oils is a natural deterrent to a range of insects, including the hawk moth, which is notorious for laying hornworm eggs.
For a robust defense, consider planting a mix of these companions. Integrating plants like parsley, dill, mustard, or marigolds alongside your tomatoes can significantly reduce the presence of hornworms.
Introducing dill or basil can protect your plants the following year, and don’t forget, marigolds make an excellent addition too. These strategies not only keep pests at bay but also invite beneficial insects, making your garden a healthier and more productive space.
Using pesticides
When dealing with high pest numbers, it’s advisable to start with a mild, naturally-derived pesticide to gain initial control. Follow this by introducing beneficial insects that help keep the pest population in check.
If pests persist and become a significant issue, targeting them with a quick-acting organic insecticide can be effective. Make sure to apply it thoroughly, covering the undersides of leaves and reaching deep into where the insects lurk.
Pesticides should generally be a last resort. However, if alternative methods prove ineffective, considering a suitable product might be necessary. For instance, targeting young pests like small caterpillars is easier than dealing with larger ones. Before severe damage occurs, such as extensive leaf loss from tomato hornworms, intervention is crucial.
One of the safest and most specific treatments for caterpillars is Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a natural bacterial insecticide. It disrupts the caterpillars’ digestive processes, leading to their demise.
It’s most potent when they are less than two inches long and needs reapplication every week to maintain its effectiveness. It’s harmless to humans and can be used on edible crops up to the day of harvest, provided the produce is washed thoroughly.
For young caterpillars, products like Safer Garden Dust and Monterey Garden Insect Spray, which contain Bt and Spinosad respectively, are highly effective.
Spinosad, another natural option derived from soil bacteria, targets the nervous system of chewing pests like caterpillars. It remains potent for a couple of weeks but is safe for beneficial insects once dry, although it is toxic to bees when wet.
Insecticidal soaps can also be useful against smaller caterpillars. Direct contact is necessary, and since it has no residual effect, repeated applications may be required. This soap is particularly gentle on beneficial insects.
On the other hand, more persistent pesticides like bifenthrin and other pyrethroids offer longer protection but can harm both pests and beneficial insects. Usually, a single application is enough.
When managing a large hornworm population or a significant garden area, the bacterial pesticide Bt is an effective choice, albeit needing reapplication after rain. For a comprehensive list of suitable insecticides, consult your local Cooperative Extension.
Cultivate The Soil
No matter how vigilant you are in your garden, some tomato hornworms might slip through your defenses and manage to pupate. These robust caterpillars mature and then descend to the soil where they create pupation chambers about 4 to 6 inches deep. After spending two weeks in these chambers, they emerge as adult moths, ready to start the cycle anew.
Tomato hornworms complete their life cycle in about 30 to 50 days, allowing for two distinct pupation periods within a growing season. The first batch of moths appears in mid-summer, while the second set hatches in spring from the pupae that have hibernated over winter.
One effective strategy to combat these pests is to turn the soil over in the fall with a shovel or tiller, exposing and thus destroying the dormant pupae, identifiable by their tough brown casings. This method significantly reduces their numbers, though it’s not a foolproof way to banish hornworms for good.
Regularly tilling the soil at the start and end of each gardening season is crucial for disrupting the lifecycle of overwintering larvae, with evidence showing that this can eliminate up to 90% of them. Additional tactics include:
- Clearing weeds to minimize potential egg-laying sites for the moths.
- Tilling post-harvest to target any caterpillars and pupae still in the soil.
- Implementing crop rotation to decrease the likelihood of pupae developing into moths.
By adopting these natural control methods, you can significantly reduce the presence of tomato hornworms in your garden.
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- A Gardener’s Guide to Controlling Earwig Populations
- Unraveling the Mystery of Frothy “Frog Spit” on Plants
source https://harvestsavvy.com/tomato-hornworms/
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